Life in the Fast Lane
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This route follows a prominent right slanting dike and makes for an excellent approach pitch to EBGB's. It is pretty worthwhile, but not very sustained. The bolts are in the right places and it is not too stressful for the follower.
Follow the dike up and right past 3 well spaced bolts with a tricky crux between the 2nd and 3rd. Easy climbing on poor quality rock up and right. Surmount a small block with a finger crack and continue up the upper half of the dike (5.10-) past one more bolt on better rock.
This route is down and right of EBGB's block and follows the most appealing of a couple of obvious right leaning dikes. It is in the sun from late morning on.
4 fat bolts, couple of fat stoppers and cams to 1/2" and a couple of long slings. Gear belay 1/2" to 1-1/2" cams (green and red Camelots). Down climb toward EBGB's is easy but exposed.
Past the crux
One closer to 1,000! Way to go Dave!
|Comments on Life in the Fast Lane
From: Oakland CA
Nov 26, 2011
This is a really fun pitch on a neat feature, recommended. Doesn't get the traffic it deserves despite 2 stars in the Vogel guide, and that one is rather parsimonious with the stars! Probably the traversing nature of the route, both climbers need to be solid.
I believe this is just "Fast Lane" in my older Vogel guide. Good name, since it is the left dike.