Life By the Tracks  5.8

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham May 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Bob A on Jun 17, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This a variation start to Todd Swain's route Land Ahoy(Websters 87' guidebook)Fun trad variation up the left side of the "rainbow"arch on the Gully#1 buttress to join at at top of the arch to Swain's land Ahoy.
Start at the small weakness at toe of the slab on left,up this trending right to the start of the arch.Protect,then up the arch to the top to join Land Ahoy.Pull that crux and climb straight up past two well spaced bolts to a two bolt rap anchor on left.Swains route starts at the base of the slab,right of the arch.climb straight up the face(5.7r) to the top of the arch,protect and continue on up past two bolts to the anchor on left.

Location 

The route starts below and left of the obvious flake/arch on the Gully#1 buttress.Rappell with two ropes or with one using the Part the Sea anchor down and left below the grassy terrace,then down and left through the clean streak.
To find the Gully 1 buttress,look for a large pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min),turn right for 2 minuts,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3 inches.double on #1 and .75 camalot size may be helpful.Two bolts on the upper part of Land Ahoy to a two bolt rap anchor.All old bolts have been upgraded in 2012.