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Gulley No.1 Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cody's Lament T 
First Shot S 
Ground Zero T 
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 
Lead Poisoning  T 
Life By the Tracks T 
Mice & Men T 
Part the Sea T 
Superior Races, The T 

Life By the Tracks 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham May 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Bob A on Jun 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Life by the Tracks (corner) and Land Ahoy (face to...


This a variation start to Todd Swain's route "Land Ahoy" ( see Websters 87' guidebook) Fun trad variation up the left side of the "rainbow"arch on the Gully#1 buttress to join at at top of the arch to Swain's land Ahoy.
Start at the small weakness at toe of the slab on left,up this trending right to the start of the arch. Protect, then up the arch to the top to join Land Ahoy. Pull that crux and climb straight up past two well spaced bolts to a two bolt rap anchor on left.

Swain's route "Land Ahoy" starts at the base of the slab,right of the arch. Climb straight up the face(5.7R) to the top of the arch, protect and continue on up past two bolts to the anchor on left.


The route starts below and left of the obvious flake/arch on the Gully#1 buttress.Rappell with two ropes or with one using the Part the Sea anchor down and left below the grassy terrace,then down and left through the clean streak.
To find the Gully 1 buttress,look for a large pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min),turn right for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.


Standard rack to 3 inches.double on #1 and .75 camalot size may be helpful.Two bolts on the upper part of Land Ahoy to a two bolt rap anchor.All old bolts have been upgraded in 2012.

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By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jun 18, 2012

Great moves up this wonderful natural feature. Keep your cool for the first 40', then you are rewarded with some very exciting and aesthetic climing! Seems the more natural and obvious start to Land Ahoy. Shouldn't be missed!
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