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Lies and Propaganda 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1987
Page Views: 3,128
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Feb 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (121)
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Mike Garrity on Lies and Propaganda, photo by Arth...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Lies and Propaganda is deservedly one of the most popular 5.9s at Rumney. In late 2005, a large flake fell off the bottom of the route that upped the difficulty level a bit. The initial moves to the second bolt are steep and pumpy, with the crux coming right after the second bolt. The climbing eases a bit in the middle, and then finishes through a fun, juggy overhang. After pulling through the overhang, work around to the right and climb the final short slab to the anchors. Fun climb, and worth the wait.

Location 

Located on a prominent arête just right of Rose Garden and the No Money Down area. Just look for the longest line at the Meadows, get in line, and you’ll eventually end up below L & P.

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.


Photos of Lies and Propaganda Slideshow Add Photo
James placing the first draw on Lies and Propaganda
James placing the first draw on Lies and Propagand...
James cruising up Lies and Propaganda
James cruising up Lies and Propaganda

Comments on Lies and Propaganda Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 26, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The huge flake was deliberately pried off. It was basically just sitting there and if someone ended up pulling it off, it would have created serious mayhem. Now, it serves as a perfect belay/hang-out seat at the base.
By Kayte Knower
Mar 3, 2007

This was my first ever project at Rumney. I was so proud to top out onto that slab. It's still one of my favorites.
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Nov 16, 2008

Tom Armstrong did this climb ground up, onsight. 1st two bolts drilled from a hook.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 28, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I got on this route for the first time this summer and was severely saddened I had not been on it before the bottom flows beautifully and the overhang at the top is just good old fashioned fun.
By Alyson Sewell
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 25, 2010

I absolutely loved this route! I got on it for the first time today and led it! I did have one hang because the top part before the anchors is a bit tricky to get up and over the bulge, you just need to find the holds that work for you... they are there! 5 out of 4 stars for me!
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 26, 2010

one of my first rumney leads, good job.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Jun 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gave this a try today, falling mid-crux with slack makes for an interesting situation. I had the privilege of waving to my belayer as he flew past me...good pumpy start though.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I felt that getting to the first bolt was the most fun part of this climb. The crux was ok, but was not that enjoyable for me. Seems like a good climb to start working the stamina of a 5.9 leader, as the crux sequence is draining at the grade, not too long, but also not just 1 move either.
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Sep 28, 2012

I climbed this one a while ago. No falls, a few hangs as I was pumped at the end of the day. The most memorbale for me was rocking onto the slab at the top. And I think it was snowing too.