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The Yaks
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Don't Talk Back T 
Liebacker's Lullaby T 
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Liebacker's Lullaby 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rupert Kammerlander, Craig Mackay 1/1973
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: powderfinger on Dec 18, 2013

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Looking down the second pitch
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Description 

A three pitch all gear protected crack climb at Pinnacles? Yep, hard to believe but it exists and it's pretty dang fun. So if you have friends that think all the climbing at Pinnacles is face climbing with bolts drag them up to this route.

Pitch 1) Climb up a 5.6 chimney/gulley with twin cracks taking care not to pull down any loose stuff. When the cracks stop and the lichen appears traverse left across reddish colored rock and do a step across move. Continue up through the tree to a good ledge with a fixed piton.

Pitch 2) Start liebacking (5.8) up the corner with the wide crack. Continue to a small ledge underneath a wide orangish crack/roof with a lot of Condor poop. Belay here on large cams

Pitch3) Traverse out right on the face to avoid standing on the rotten loose poop covered rock and then cut back left into the corner and follow the sweet 5.7 lieback to the top!

Pitch 2 and 3 are both short enough that is feasible to link them with 60 meter rope. This might require a little thought w/extending placements with slings and extra cams.


Location 

Route is located on the Yaks Wall Right. A good land mark is a large tree at the base of a small buttress/pinnacle with a smaller tree on top. Route starts in chimney up the gulley to the right of the tree.

Walk off to the North.


Protection 

standard single rack to 5" with doubles in 2"-3"
small to medium tri-cams could be useful in the holes on the second pitch.
First pitch belay has a fixed piton. 3 bolt anchor at the top of the climb.



Photos of Liebacker's Lullaby Slideshow Add Photo
dave having a blast approaching the second belay
dave having a blast approaching the second belay
tree at the start of the route
tree at the start of the route
Dave starting up the 3rd 5.7 pitch
Dave starting up the 3rd 5.7 pitch
Tree before the end of the 1st pitch and the start of the third pitch in view.
Tree before the end of the 1st pitch and the start...
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