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Waterfall Cliff
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Anti-Christ 
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Leading To Death 
Lieback Corner 
Oracle, The 
Putrefaction 

Lieback Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,815
Submitted By: Swansonbro on May 29, 2005
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Doug Fields leading lower section. Great crack fo...

Description 

Really fun trad or top rope route. Difficuly not overwhelming for the novice leader despite moderately strenuous start. Route eats up medium to large pieces lower down with great lieback hands. Balancey footwork needed to top out.


Protection 

Medium to large hexes or cams (1"-3") work nicely, as well as a few medium to large stoppers. Two bolt belay anchor at the top.



Photos of Lieback Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Doug leading up Lieback Corner, well in command.  Tricky move to surmount the dihedral a little further on requires some fine foot balance.
Doug leading up Lieback Corner, well in command. ...
Liza Butler, of Sausalito, on the super-fun lieback route.
Liza Butler, of Sausalito, on the super-fun liebac...
Comments on Lieback Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

It's OK.

By Constantine
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Aug 27, 2009

Super loose up on top, if setting up TR move all the big rock or they will slide down.

By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Jun 20, 2011

Fun route with a great 5.8 slab variation to the left off the same anchors.

By presto
From: Prescott, AZ
Mar 15, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Easy 5.7, maybe 5.6, but fun climbing. Two tricams and and two scld's were all i used. brown tricam and a sling around a feature at the top for an anchor that was actually in-line with the climb to belay a second. Bolts to the left are awkward and off route.

Great for beginners to practice placements

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 14, 2013

Currently no two bolt anchor above this climb. Borrowing the anchor from Clamydia will risk a big pendulum from the top.

Build a good enough anchor using gear and trees directly back from the top of the climb.