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> Real Hidden Val…
> Turtle Rock
> Turtle Rock - S Face
Lieback and Lingerie
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Turtle Rock - South Face
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Desert Shield S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Integrity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Jesus Lives S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kippy Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Lieback and Lingerie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Satanic Mechanic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sexy Sadye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Bob Gaines (Nov, '90) |
| Page Views: | 1,098 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Feb 17, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route starts just up and left of Sexy Sadye and follows a lieback/undercling flake past a couple bolts before joining Sexy Sadye at its final bolt. It's possible to place gear at maybe one or two spots on the flake, but it wouldn't actually make the climb better protected. Get ready to crank some tough moves while standing above the second bolt. The bolts are bomber and the fall from the crux is clean, making this seem a bit less serious than many other "R" routes in the park; however, if you're not up for the lead this one can be easily toproped after climbing Sexy Sadye.
Sun morning to noon.
Sun morning to noon.
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