Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The S 
Brown Palace, The S 
Convolution S 
Deceiver S 
Disneyland T,S 
Dynamite S 
Fool Me Twice T,S 
Frisky Lady S 
Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
Maternal Damnation S 
New Direction T 
Out Of Time S 
Proud Mary S 
Stuck In Time S 
There's Something About Mary T,S 
Violet Blue S 
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lie Detector 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Justin Dubois, 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: year round (afternoon in summer)
Page Views: 1,464
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on Feb 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Justin at the bottom of the overhanging crux secti...

Description 

Lie Detector is a 3-pitch route (with an option to go to the top) that lies between Proud Mary and Fool Me Twice.

1. 75 feet, 5.10a, bolted. Do the first pitch of Deceiver. Another option begins with The Brown Palace but finishes on the upper half of Deceiver (this is the quick and easy way to reach the new pitches, 5.7).

2. 75 feet, 5.11c, 8 bolts. Step left and follow a prominent right-facing flake to a series of steep overlaps. The bulging section features powerful underclings and liebacks (crux); clipping the final bolt could be exciting during an onsight. Belay at a sloping stance with two bolts. These bolts are part of the rappel route for Proud Mary. This is a fine pitch.

3. 95 feet, 5.11c, 10 bolts. Head up and right to reach a short crack, and then step left at its end to a vertical headwall with a seam. Unlock crux moves up the seam, and then bearhug to the 3rd pitch belay anchor on The Brown Palace.

Rappel the route (95', 75', 75') or continue for 3 more pitches on The Brown Palace (5.10+, 5.10, 5.10d).

I believe one could safely lead the upper half of the third pitch from the 2nd belay on The Brown Palace (I've top roped it that way). Bring a #0.75 Camalot for the short crack for this option, and a couple of long slings.

Location 

Lie Detector climbs through two headwalls left of Fool Me Twice but right of Proud Mary. It begins with Deceiver, which is near the left edge of the main roadside face.

Protection 

Bring 12 quick draws and a couple locking biners.


Photos of Lie Detector Slideshow Add Photo
Lie Detector is Route C in this topo, which shows the routes on the left side of Mary's Bust.
BETA PHOTO: Lie Detector is Route C in this topo, which shows ...
Justin at the beginning of the prominent flake on pitch 2.
Justin at the beginning of the prominent flake on ...
Justin grabs a quickdraw -- weak!!  OK, he's just unclipping the thing....
Justin grabs a quickdraw -- weak!! OK, he's just ...

Comments on Lie Detector Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -