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Justin at the bottom of the overhanging crux secti...
Lie Detector is a 3-pitch route (with an option to go to the top) that lies between Proud Mary
and Fool Me Twice
1. 75 feet, 5.10a, bolted. Do the first pitch of Deceiver
. Another option begins with The Brown Palace
but finishes on the upper half of Deceiver (this is the quick and easy way to reach the new pitches, 5.7).
2. 75 feet, 5.11c, 8 bolts. Step left and follow a prominent right-facing flake to a series of steep overlaps. The bulging section features powerful underclings and liebacks (crux); clipping the final bolt could be exciting during an onsight. Belay at a sloping stance with two bolts. These bolts are part of the rappel route for Proud Mary. This is a fine pitch.
3. 95 feet, 5.11c, 10 bolts. Head up and right to reach a short crack, and then step left at its end to a vertical headwall with a seam. Unlock crux moves up the seam, and then bearhug to the 3rd pitch belay anchor on The Brown Palace.
Rappel the route (95', 75', 75') or continue for 3 more pitches on The Brown Palace (5.10+, 5.10, 5.10d).
I believe one could safely lead the upper half of the third pitch from the 2nd belay on The Brown Palace (I've top roped it that way). Bring a #0.75 Camalot for the short crack for this option, and a couple of long slings.
Lie Detector climbs through two headwalls left of Fool Me Twice
but right of Proud Mary
. It begins with Deceiver
, which is near the left edge of the main roadside face.
Bring 12 quick draws and a couple locking biners.
BETA PHOTO: Lie Detector is Route C in this topo, which shows ...
Justin at the beginning of the prominent flake on ...
Justin grabs a quickdraw -- weak!! OK, he's just ...