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Climb the face up to the black, wet, left-facing dihedral. This is a major water runoff whenever it has rained or snow is melting. If you can find it dry, it's a great steep route with as many face holds as jamming.
Cams in the finger-hand size.
BETA PHOTO: Licorice Stick covered with ice.
A sequence shot of Matt Lloyd soloing a unknown ro...
|Comments on Licorice Stick
|By Darrin Stein|
From: Milwaukee, WI
Jan 9, 2002
Note: Ratings are subjective!!
I have a couple guide books that show this is sent at 5.7+. I don't feel this is any harder than 5.8. It has a couple awkard stances that may produce the feeling of it being harder than it really is. This is in my opinion and no disrespect to Ben.
|By Jason Carter|
From: Monument, CO
Mar 25, 2002
Keep your hands in the crack for an increased rating; also, for a clean start, there is an undercling for your right hand that is found in a plumb line with the crack. Start with this to keep to the route. This is better than starting up the face then moving right. Fun route, lots of options for feet and hands.
|By Sean O'Dell|
Jun 1, 2002
For what its worth, I found this route to be interesting and sustained and probably worthy of a 9- (ish) rating. Whatever number you attach to it, this route demands a really cool combination of crack and face styles and if it wasn't for the potential for it to be wet at times, I'd call it a three-star.
|By Ken McVicker|
Sep 18, 2002
Good route but easy. Nice warmup, if a 9 definitely a -. Using the crack as a layback definitely makes it easier. On my second climb of this doing a layback allowed my to fly up this.
|By Ben Mottinger|
Sep 18, 2002
Now that I think about this, it is more like 5.8. I just put the rating posted in Tom's book.
|By Dan Mottinger|
Mar 20, 2003
While not a hard 5.9, I believe this route deserves the 5.9 rating. Steep sustained and a few tricky techniques when leading it. When compared to 5.8 trad climbs at the Wood, this climb is a notch harder, IMHO.
From: Englewood, CO
May 1, 2003
Try this one barefoot for some real fun!
From: castle rock, co
Sep 21, 2004
This is one of the best warm up climbs on this wall. very fun. it also comes with an annoying amount of rope drag.
|By Captain Splatt|
Oct 9, 2006
The hardest part of this route is the start, and it isn't all that hard as it is tricky. As for the rest of the climb, stems ane liebacks make the route easy. Technical but fun. 5.7+ all the way.
From: Durango, CO
May 2, 2007
This is a fun route, but I got a hex stuck about 1/4 of the way up. Feel free to use it, definitely solid. Or if you get it out good job.
|By Mike Carrington|
Oct 10, 2008
Hold broke off of the climb about 3/4 of the way up some time in the last few weeks. I was soloing it and noticed right away it was missing.
Oct 17, 2012
If I was planning on leading it, I'd want a bouldering pad available. I'd say a hold broke off somewhere about 8 feet up in the giant hole. No real pro for maybe 10-12 feet, and a sketchy start make it a difficult lead. The rest of the route is much easier.