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 ADVANCED
East Wall, North End (Diamond Dogs Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barking Spiders S 
Bong Along T 
Bunnies TR 
Diamond Dogs T 
Guardian Angels S 
Lenore Goldberg T 
Lickety Dogs TR 
Lickety Splits T 
No-Doz T 
Teen Steam T 
Uncertainty Principle T 
Zardoz T 

Lickety Splits 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Gary Ayres and Steve Skinner, November 1974
Page Views: 2,491
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 11, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Chris Lane leading Lickety Splits.

Description 

Climb up the inviting crack/flake to a point about halfway up the face where it ends, load up some gear, and then run-it-out all the way to bolted anchors. Make sure you're solid at the grade because falling is probably best avoided on the upepr section of this route. Two stars out of five.

Location 

About 15' right of Zardoz at an obvious flake.

Protection 

Gear to 2.5 inches, 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Zardoz)


Photos of Lickety Splits Slideshow Add Photo
5.10b4me leading Lickety Splits.
5.10b4me leading Lickety Splits.
5.10b4me on the sharp end at Lickety Splits.
5.10b4me on the sharp end at Lickety Splits.
Taking a Pause during the crux moves
Taking a Pause during the crux moves
Christa Cline jamming the steep crack at the start...
Christa Cline jamming the steep crack at the start...
Shane climbing Lickety Splits. submitted by 5.10b4...
Shane climbing Lickety Splits. submitted by 5.10b4...
Cheryl cleaning on Lickety Splits. submitted by 5....
Cheryl cleaning on Lickety Splits. submitted by 5....
"Lickety Splits". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Lickety Splits". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Lickety Splits Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 14, 2015
By Steve Powell
Apr 28, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Led this route yesterday, 4/27/03. One of my favorite Josh routes. Falling is not an option, and you need to be a good face climber. The crack is a lot of fun also and takes good gear. Good, solid rock, clean finger crack to lieback. Face offers good friction. Found the rating to be correct

If you have any doubts about your ability on runout face climbs, one should not lead this route. Some friends of mine feel that there needs to be a bolt between the crack and the anchors.
By Murf
Apr 28, 2003

Some friends of mine think the crack should be filled with concrete so as not to ruin a great runout face climb.
By David Evans
Apr 29, 2003

I think the crag should be dynamited so the crack runs all the way to the top. Finger size preferred.
By Murf
Apr 29, 2003

So instead of retrobolting face climbs, we could begin to retro crack them. This could be the movement of the future!
By Dynomight510
Aug 21, 2003
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice crack. Fun face climbing and falling is not an option. Not for the beginning 5.7 leader. An added bolt would increase traffic on this route and perhaps shorten lines at others. An added crack would shorten lines since most people I know don't know crack.

The start was a bit hard for 5.7.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 12, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

the "Runout" is no big deal. The route is ok
By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Totally fun route. Nice finger jams and laybacking.Killer pro placements. The runout face is a blast(nice and scoopy), scary but not impossible. Great way to toprope The Classic Diamond Dogs and the runout Zardoz.
By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I forgot, a bolt on the face would definately ruin this climb!
By kentoncard
Apr 25, 2005

After only about 3 previous trad leads a friend of mine named Jeff decided to try this "cool" line as we walked over to TR Janes Addiction. He thought this "cool" line would have a bolt up high and even though i disagreed he decided to find out. 30 ft past the crack he started to believe me that there was no bolt. The funny thing was that as he was up high, begining to freak out before reaching the anchors, he had heard me say to another novice friend of mine how if he ate shit here he would hit the deck for sure.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 2, 2006

I dont normally post stuff, but this was a great route. getting pushed around by strong winds halfway between the anchor and the 3 aliens(red,yellow,green) that I stuffed in the crack made the route exciting. Falling is not an option on this climb. I remember manteling knob was a little unnerving (chris parks) I think the FT's ( read this as F' ing Tourists were wondering why I was sticking all the " gear " I had in the crack below the anchors. If they were around earlier I was coaching my belayer on running like hell if I blew out of the thing!
By Pat W
Jan 27, 2007

Regardless, this route is 5.7X. The initial section is nice secure fingers, but above, falling is not an option. The upper slab is fun and committing, but not for novice moderate leaders. A fall up high = dirt nap.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007

Only TR'd it but checked the placements on the way up. Can't wait to lead it 'cause I'll never lead Zardoz again! (yecchh)
By Gary Schenk
Mar 3, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

This climb deserves every star it gets. I led it first thing Saturday morning, March 1. The finger crack was fun, but I was seriously contemplating helicopter rescue about half way up the face.

I spent the rest of the day in an adrenaline haze. It was such a fun route, there was no point in doing anything else that day! We did use the anchors to top rope Zardoz and Diamond Dogs.

This is a great climb and an exciting lead.
By Rodger Raubach
Feb 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

This climb lends new meaning to the old saying :"the leader must not fall." Other than that, it isn't bad for a leader solid at the grade. I found the initial crack to be very nice, but I'm seriously more of a face climber and enjoyed the runout. The crack eats pro. Adding a bolt would ruin the excitement of this climb!
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 1, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

Not really sure how this climb can't be considered as an X. I suppose one could survive the fall but the mess of all the internal bleeding would be leave one pretty frail.
By Dave Chapman
From: The LBC
Jan 23, 2013

I could swear BITD (mid 90's?) it did have a bolt about about halfway up the face?? Seemed like the runout wasnt too bad after this point as the steepness really eased up.
By dnaiscool
Apr 12, 2015

Gotta agree with Dave on this one: There was a single bolt between the crack and the anchors. I took many climbing classes here during the winters of '89-'91, and we'd run clients up this route all day. I'd thread the rope through a biner on that lone bolt to keep the rope in line with the base, and I have it drawn on the photo of the route in my purple 1986 Vogel guide book. I know a bolt was there, for SURE.

If there is no bolt there, then IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED, So the next time you do this route keep a sharp eye out for either a hole or a busted off rusty stud about 20 feet above the end of the crack, right about where you'd start heading left to join the upper half of Zardoz.

No need to keep this terrific route without the fixed protection I KNOW it once had.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 14, 2015

There was never a bolt on this route. My '79 Wolfe guide and '92 Vogel guide specifically mention the unprotected face above the crack. There is a 5.4ish move a ways above the top of the crack, but there are plenty of worse runouts to be found on other routes here in JT.
By dnaiscool
Apr 14, 2015

I led this route back in the 70's and guided many, many clients up it, and though it is not specifically mentioned, there was a bolt above that crack. It was there when I led it a long time ago, and it was there in the early 90's. I penned the beta for it into the photo of the route in my '86 Vogel Guide (the purple one), and even with that bolt you will STILL have to run it out another 40 feet or so to the anchors, and THAT is the run-out described in the '79, '86 and '92 guides.

About 15-20 feet above the "ghost" bolt the angle really drops off, and the difficulties ease to less than 5.0; so that bolt was driven to get the leader past the last of the "steep" slab above the crack.

I think it would be prudent for someone who cares to head back to this route and hunt around for the hole/busted stud...it is there...guaranteed!

In any case, there WAS a bolt, I clipped it, I used it as a directional for top ropes, and I think it should be replaced, which would return the route to its original condition. Why should only the super hard routes have descent protection? Why keep a really good moderate route in an artificially unsafe condition? Like I say, this route will still have a big run-out, even with a bolt in there, but the fall will be 20-40 feet rather than 80 feet... to a dirt nap.

Restore the route...replace the bolt.
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