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 ADVANCED
Sphinx Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Crack T 
Cheops S 
Crunch, The T,TR 
Exit Stage Right T 
Joint Venture T,TR 
Lickety Split S 
Locksmith, aka Dihedral Route T 
Return to Forever T 
Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 
So Honed Yet So Stoned S 
Sphinx Crack T 
Talus Food Crack T 
Thinner T 

Lickety Split 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: Chris Carr on Apr 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Sallie higher on Lickety Split.

Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route follows the right edge of the slab that cuts the Sphinx in half. On the appoach, you'll see the obvious slab facing you. Walk up the ramp as far as you want or until you find a level place to stach your gear, then head up and right on the friction slab. The first two bolts are of rather poor quality. This climb can be done in one or two pitches (a 60m rope is nice).

Protection 

There are 7 bolts plus two, two bolt anchors. Quickdraws are all that you'll need.


Photos of Lickety Split Slideshow Add Photo
Rebecca on Lickety Split.
Rebecca on Lickety Split.
Looking up the slab and Lickety Split.
Looking up the slab and Lickety Split.
Carefully smearing on friction.
Carefully smearing on friction.
Sallie Greenwood on pitch 1.
Sallie Greenwood on pitch 1.
Unclipping one of the old bolts.
Unclipping one of the old bolts.
Sallie enjoying the pitch.
Sallie enjoying the pitch.
Unclipping another quickdraw.
Unclipping another quickdraw.
Looking for the next friction hold.
Looking for the next friction hold.
On top! We scrambled over the boulder in back and ...
On top! We scrambled over the boulder in back and ...

Comments on Lickety Split Add Comment
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By Chris Carr
Apr 24, 2002

Just some FYI for everyone... someone has taken the rap hangers off of the bolts at the top of this route. This just means that you cannot rap the route; to belay, just walk off to the left and belay from the ground. -Cheers
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Apr 24, 2002
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route was rebolted (retrobolted?) a few years back, but rather than just replacing the old bolts, whoever did it decided to replace all but the bottom 2 bolts and to add an extra bolt above the 1st belay and the bolts on top. The top belay is easily set up with medium-sized gear (2-3 pieces) and the walk-off is not bad - no need to rap. The top bolts should be completely pulled and the holes patched as they are NOT needed and were never there until a few years ago. The actual route though is a lot of fun! Just be careful getting past the 1st two bolts (the 1st bolt is about 40-50 ft up)!
By Dave
Jan 20, 2003

I was up on Lickety Split and saw that some one had stripped both of the bolts on the top of the second pitch and then attemped to saw off one of the bolts. This person only got about 2/3's of the way through one of them. The second stud seemed to be normal. I would like to suggest that this person finish the job and cut it clean, some one could put on their own hangers and rip the stud of the bolt in two.

If you are going to climb Lickety Split, bring some smaller tricams and skip those suspect bolts.
By TradBiner
May 1, 2003

Scouted out Likety Split yesterday. Couldn't see any anchors on the top of second pitch at all. Bit of trash and broken glass around the base of the pitch.
By Jay Hippel
From: Denver, CO
Jan 29, 2004

There are no bolts for any belays on this route. 1st or second pitch. the first two bolts on the route are sorry as well, homemade with nails/pins. To reach the top you must have at least a 60m and belay at the top of the approach ramp before it gets steep. You can belay with small-med cams on top. This route is not for the faint of heart. Very runout to the first bolt. No handholds, just smearing feet. If you make for a hole 3/4 way up, you will miss a bolt but can get a #1 in the hole (it's also the only legitimate handhold). Scared the hell out of me when I did it.
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this yesterday. Bolts ARE there at the end of the 1st pitch. The first 2 bolts are still old 1/4 inchers (2nd one has a leeper hanger that spins). Still need gear for the top anchor (medium nuts, small-medium cams). This is a fun climb that never gets old....
By Andrew
From: Lakewood
May 8, 2006

Just plain fun. The first two bolts just might catch you. The rest are bomber. Top anchors still had no hangers.... I don't really see the point in taking the hangers and leaving the bolts.... I would second what someone else above said "finish the job". The bolts are more of eyesore now than when they had hangers on them. There's a good natural anchor up top if you bring a couple of long slings.
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Aug 23, 2007

In case someone decides to clean up the retro anchors at the top of this route, I just wanted to suggest a good method for removing bolts that does not harm the rock. It's unfortunate that some folks first attempt to saw through the stud (chopping). Start by using some old blue jeans or a piece of denim or other tough fabric to protect the rock around the bolt to be removed. If the bolt does not have a hangar, you will need to add one. Using a flat bar and a hammer, with the fabric protecting the rock carefully tap the flat bar underneath the hangar. Continue to tap and pry until the bolt comes out. If for some reason the bolt refuses to come all of the way out, THEN saw the stud carefully as close to the rock as you can, and use a punch to tap/countersink the remains of the stud back into the hole. Use some epoxy and rock dust of the same color to fill the hole so that it is invisible to the casual observer.