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Trojan Bunny Buttress
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Lick My Plate 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
FA: unknown
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 21, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Trojan Bunny Buttress.

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Description 

A fun little moderate on the Trojan Bunny Buttress. This little route ascends the inviting lower-angled, west-facing slab of the crag and goes to the spot marked "3" on the picture.

Start in corner & angle left or up face to left to crack. This first bit is easy, perhaps 5.4. You can place an optional belay at the tree on gear here. Continue up the slab with horizontal weaknesses past 4 bolts. There is a bit of looser & fractured rock near the top. It is probably PG-13 for a 5.8 leader and probably better than the 0 stars by Rolofson and 1 of 5 stars by Hubbel. 1.35 stars here :). But hey, it's all fun, eh?

Either a double rope rap from the 2 bolt anchor at the top or a pair of short raps (gear?) or a 25m rap to down climbable terrain.


Protection 

4 bolts, light rack.



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By Dan Howell
From: Northglenn, CO
Sep 18, 2006

Climbed this on 9-17-06 and found that several holds on the last section had broken off. Still, probably didn't change the rating. If you look for the thin holds, they are there. Lots of debris comes down the route when it is windy.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2006

You can finish up and right under the large roof, out right under it on good gear (first knuckle cams) and then pull the roof into a corner and then up and left to a mantle to an additional set of anchors further up top and left. This is 5.10 (10-something).

To rap from those, a single 70m rope gets you down to the big tree, which we replaced the old shitty webing on with 2 new bads today- the old stuff was so old that the tree had outgrown it- so tight that it had a "ping" tone if you flicked it, and crispy. The tree can breathe again, but the green sling (quite old) will need to go, too. There are 2 new slings, and someone with a sharper knife can take down the nasty old on remaining.