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 ADVANCED
Observatory Wall (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airbus T 
Goodnight Moon T 
Lichening The Serpent S 
Luna Lumina T 
Solar Eclipse T 

Lichening The Serpent 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Billy Butler
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 14, 2007

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The Golden Boy on the first ascent.

Description 

The opening moves set the tempo for this exposed and sustained classic. The crux is through the bottom moves but does not jump out at you as a crux at any time. It is pretty sustained, balancy, and thin climbing from the get go. You have to move like a serpent would in S shapes and have good footwork. Very interesting and a must do, but not on a wet day.

Location 

Same as for Diablo at The Early Wall then climb either Drunk Rednecks, Clip Art, or Dr. Diablo and go above the anchors to a sketchy 5th class scramble(a green Alien protects a move) up to the belay anchors for Lichening The Serpent that is located at a notch between the wall and a very large block.

Protection 

8 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 21, 2008

D. Newell made a toprope ascent with one of the FAs listed here, scoping the line, prior to its being bolted, he said, (if I remember correctly).
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The lichen covered "thank god" horn/flake between bolts 6 and 7 flexes quite a lot. Don't yard on it too hard.