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Gutenberger Wall
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Lichen Us T 
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Right Up the Line T 
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Lichen Us 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown 1990s
Page Views: 1,705
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Feb 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Lichen Us runs left of the central crack on Gutenb...

Description 

A good route with 3/8" bolts reasonably spaced. Follows the nice face left of the obvious central crack system, called Gutenberger Wall Direct (GWD). From the "Grand Central Belay Station" (see Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA) can either climb down to a gear belay down and left of GWD and head straight up from there (bolts), or diagonal left across GWD to a bolted belay at the base of the third pitch (the stuff). Can rappell the route.

Location 

The nice face left of GWD. Cross the river on slippery boulders below the GWD. In the Spring this may be impossible: use your head and don't die. Climb by the various Iraqi Dihedral variations, the easiest being a the long traverse out a nice crack out right till you can cut back to the "Grand Central Belay Station". Proceed onto the route from there.
The Gutenberger Wall Direct is a nice, though sometimes dirty, climb following the central crack system using pro from small to medium cams and nuts, about 5.7.

Protection 

Bolts, light rack, thin to mediums nuts & cams.


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By Ryan Kosh
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 23, 2010

OK bolts. At least one rusted quarter incher and some sort of drilled head? Most of the other bolts looked alright, but definitely not new bolts here.
By Colonel Mustard
Jan 19, 2015

Agreed with Ryan ^^^, the bolts are... interesting in sections, but I think most everything is safe enough. Bring the rack to supplement bolts, maybe just a single set to 1" on Lichen Us itself.

A 70m rope will see you to the base of Gutenberger from the topmost anchors (you rap a different route). It was a circuitous rap in our instance, but it is possible and belay stations are readily picked out on the way down. Attempting this in the dark without knowing where the rap stations are, however, may not be safe.
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