A good route with 3/8" bolts reasonably spaced. Follows the nice face left of the obvious central crack system, called Gutenberger Wall Direct (GWD). From the "Grand Central Belay Station" (see Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA) can either climb down to a gear belay down and left of GWD and head straight up from there (bolts), or diagonal left across GWD to a bolted belay at the base of the third pitch (the stuff). Can rappell the route.
The nice face left of GWD. Cross the river on slippery boulders below the GWD. In the Spring this may be impossible: use your head and don't die. Climb by the various Iraqi Dihedral variations, the easiest being a the long traverse out a nice crack out right till you can cut back to the "Grand Central Belay Station". Proceed onto the route from there.
Bolts, light rack, thin to mediums nuts & cams.