We went up to Blob Rock while on our way to ice climb. We decided it would be more fun to hit the rock. Our intent was to climb On Ballet or Where Eagles Dare, but we didn't have a book and didn't know where they went. Instead, we climbed whatever looked cool and 5.9-.10ish. This climb looked really cool and not too hard, although it is quite a bit harder than it looks.
P1. Start right at the base where the trail hits the cliff and climb up broken ramps for a 5.7 pitch. Belay at a huge block with some fixed tat wraped around it.
P2. From here, the climb arcs up and left out an overhanging face towards an arete. It looks sort of like Rosy Crucifixion but going left instead of right. The second pitch is sustained 5.9 to the traverse, which is the crux. Place some good pro and then yard off a couple of incuts and bad slopers with no feet. The reach is LONG. This is burly, and I fell four times here before backing off. It had good pro, so I don't know where the s comes from except that there is possible deckout potential onto a ledge up until this point, but only if you suck at placing gear. The crux fall is clean, though. According to Rossiter, pull the traverse and step around the arete onto a slab and climb up until a ledge is reached.
All I can say is this route is f*cking cool, so go and give it a try. If you do, you'll probably see me up there working it.
There are no bolts on this route. A standard trad rack should pretty much cover it.
The awesome 2nd pitch.
Finishing up the 2nd pitch.
|Comments on Lichen To Like
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Jan 26, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
The second pitch is not quite as bad using small cams (like Aliens, etc) and not passive pro, but maybe still be "R" because of the potential fragility of the placements near the end and the fall potential (falling is not recommended on this one). A very cool pitch! Diagonal up and left and belay at 2 ring bolts on the upper right edge. Do Erickson's or Under the Eagle's Wing to finish up a 3rd pitch!!!