Lichen To Like  5.10d R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Chris Reveley and Dudley Chelton, 1974 Submitted By:  Andrew Wellman on Jan 1, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

We went up to Blob Rock while on our way to ice climb. We decided it would be more fun to hit the rock. Our intent was to climb On Ballet or Where Eagles Dare, but we didn't have a book and didn't know where they went. Instead, we climbed whatever looked cool and 5.9-.10ish. This climb looked really cool and not too hard, although it is quite a bit harder than it looks.

P1. Start right at the base where the trail hits the cliff and climb up broken ramps for a 5.7 pitch. Belay at a huge block with some fixed tat wraped around it.

P2. From here, the climb arcs up and left out an overhanging face towards an arete. It looks sort of like Rosy Crucifixion but going left instead of right. The second pitch is sustained 5.9 to the traverse, which is the crux. Place some good pro and then yard off a couple of incuts and bad slopers with no feet. The reach is LONG. This is burly, and I fell four times here before backing off. It had good pro, so I don't know where the s comes from except that there is possible deckout potential onto a ledge up until this point, but only if you suck at placing gear. The crux fall is clean, though. According to Rossiter, pull the traverse and step around the arete onto a slab and climb up until a ledge is reached.

All I can say is this route is f*cking cool, so go and give it a try. If you do, you'll probably see me up there working it.

Protection 

There are no bolts on this route. A standard trad rack should pretty much cover it.

Photos of Lichen To Like Slideshow

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The awesome 2nd pitch.	Zac on 2nd pitch.	Finishing up the 2nd pitch.