Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The G-Spot
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bumpin the Gate S 
Drillin' in My Dreams S 
Drip of Fools S 
Kagels and Locks S 
Layback and Relax S 
Lichen Lickin S 
She Goes Both Ways S 

Lichen Lickin 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: tim kemple sr. winter 2000
Page Views: 515
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jared heading up Lichen Lickin. Not the best phot...


This is the line on the far left... Packs way more of a punch than it looks... The top climbing wouldnt be too bad if it wasn't covered in Lichen is... I pulled some of it out of the important holds but there is more to be done... Bring a brush...

Climb up the slight invert which ever way you see fit... I stayed right of the bolts but it could go straight up... Some interesting footwork and big reaches get you past a 2nd bolt crux and on to fun moves leading to the upper crux which is reaching the chains in a sea of Lichen... I eventually went up left of the anchor and made it happen but some traffic or a good brushing would be in order for the top part...


Far left route at the G-Spot...


3 bolts to anchor...

Comments on Lichen Lickin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a spiny (reminding me a little of Gulliver's Travels) and technical face climb that awards those who enjoy stemming. Stay to the right of the 2nd bolt as you head up. A stance at the third (and final) bolt will allow a shake before heading up to the anchors. Out left is the way to go, but the holds aren't fantastic. Don't expect a nice feeling jug to clip from. A little spooky until you clip the anchors.
By S. Neoh
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Yeah, very nearly as sharp as Gulliver's. The top has gotten quite filled in with lichen which made clipping the anchors a bit unnerving. I wish I had brought a big wire brush for the top.
Tough to on-sight and quite technical for only 10+ feet of 'real' climbing. I stayed left of the three bolts. 1-1/2 stars.
By jdavis
From: New Hampshire
Jul 31, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

i agree with the description and comments - the route looks pretty casual from the ground, but it can get desperate in a hurry up top, especially with the lichen overgrowth that makes it tough to find holds. very tricky to onsight.

i stayed to the right at the third bolt after pawing around on the left side for a bit - it felt about 10d/11a the way i did it, but i would not be surprised to learn that i missed some marginally better holds out left.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
4 days ago
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I thought this route was cake compared to Drilling in My Dreams to its right. It is like Gulliver's but not nearly as sharp. And the holds are bigger.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!