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She Goes Both Ways 

Lichen Lickin 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: tim kemple sr. winter 2000
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 25, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Jared heading up Lichen Lickin. Not the best phot...

Description 

This is the line on the far left... Packs way more of a punch than it looks... The top climbing wouldnt be too bad if it wasn't covered in Lichen but...it is... I pulled some of it out of the important holds but there is more to be done... Bring a brush...

Climb up the slight invert which ever way you see fit... I stayed right of the bolts but it could go straight up... Some interesting footwork and big reaches get you past a 2nd bolt crux and on to fun moves leading to the upper crux which is reaching the chains in a sea of Lichen... I eventually went up left of the anchor and made it happen but some traffic or a good brushing would be in order for the top part...


Location 

Far left route at the G-Spot...


Protection 

3 bolts to anchor...



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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This is a spiny (reminding me a little of Gulliver's Travels) and technical face climb that awards those who enjoy stemming. Stay to the right of the 2nd bolt as you head up. A stance at the third (and final) bolt will allow a shake before heading up to the anchors. Out left is the way to go, but the holds aren't fantastic. Don't expect a nice feeling jug to clip from. A little spooky until you clip the anchors.

By S. Neoh
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Yeah, very nearly as sharp as Gulliver's. The top has gotten quite filled in with lichen which made clipping the anchors a bit unnerving. I wish I had brought a big wire brush for the top.
Tough to on-sight and quite technical for only 10+ feet of 'real' climbing. I stayed left of the three bolts. 1-1/2 stars.

By jdavis
From: New Hampshire
Jul 31, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

i agree with the description and comments - the route looks pretty casual from the ground, but it can get desperate in a hurry up top, especially with the lichen overgrowth that makes it tough to find holds. very tricky to onsight.

i stayed to the right at the third bolt after pawing around on the left side for a bit - it felt about 10d/11a the way i did it, but i would not be surprised to learn that i missed some marginally better holds out left.