Lichen Forty Winks  5.8-

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Dick Williams, Joe Bridges, Dave Craft, 1988 Submitted By:  Dana Bartlett on Oct 24, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Route description: 

1. Start about 10 feet left of the outside corner that is 10 feet left of the start of Sleepwalk. Go straight up the face to the third overhang. Cross this (crux) then, most sensibly, go up and right to the Ants' Line bolts. 70 feet, 5.8-

2. Go straight up the face, staying 10-15 feet right of a large, bent pine tree. Climb easy rock past a clean, white section, go over a small roof (crux, a bit of loose rock) and then go past a second overhang and on to the top. It's much more pleasant and sensible to skip the second overhang and diagonal right to a very large pine. 5.7-, 60 feet.

From the clifftop, walk climber's left to the High Exposure rappel line.

Decent protection, decent climbing. Standard 'Gunks rack