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Leaning Tower
Routes Sorted
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Blinded by the Light S 
Craggy Crack T,TR 
Lichen Attack Crack T 
Mainliner S 
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 
Second Thought S 
Tiny Propeller S 
Unknown S 
Will of the Wasp S 

Lichen Attack Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 6, 2008

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Description 

This is a painful and exciting continuous finger to hand crack up a slightly overhanging right facing dihedral. Once you take off on the climb it stays on you most of the way, but does offer a least one good rest above the crux section midway up. Tape recommended.

Location 

This is the obvious crack system to the left of The Leaning Tower. Rap the route with at least a 60 meter rope. Be ready to leave some sling material and perhaps a rap ring.

Protection 

Stoppers, a double set of Aliens and Camalots up to a #4.

As of 6/08: 2-bolt anchor with chains now present on right side of crack at the top.


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By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jun 8, 2008

2-bolt anchor with chains now present on right side of crack at the top.