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Liberty Bell
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Liberty Crack 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c C2 [details]
FA: 
Season: when the North Cascades Highway is open
Page Views: 8,488
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Aug 9, 2009

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Belay on block atop pitch 6.

Description 

Links:
Excellent route guide.
good topo

route description to come...

Location 

Park at the turnout on the hairpin turn just east of Washington Pass on Highway 20. Walk back toward the pass, look for the pond on the south side of the road. At the East end of the pond, look for the trail heading into the woods. It is often marked with cairns. The Trail will bring you to the East Face of Liberty Bell.

Look to the left side of the East Face. The Liberty Crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof (2 pitches up)on its right side. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack.

Protection 

-1 60 m rope will work for a 1 day ascent. If in doubt, bring a tag line.
-1 set micro stoppers.
-1 set offsets,
-1 set reg. stoppers.
-doubles in TCU's or C3's #00-3.
-doubles in cams to 3"(c4 sizes .5-3).
-one #4 cam is optional. 3 48" slings. 12-16 trad draws.
-1 BD cliffhanger or similar hook is usually called for, but it is very easy to do without (even for inexperienced aid climbers).
-extra biners
-2 alpine etriers
-1 jumar 1 webbing loop, 1 Gri-Gri or similar. for jugging. (This method of jugging makes the Lithuaniun Lip easier to follow.
-or 2 jumars and webbing loops.


Photos of Liberty Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Turning the lip.  Quite airy and a lot of fun.
Turning the lip. Quite airy and a lot of fun.
E. Face of Liberty Bell.  Liberty Crack on left of...
E. Face of Liberty Bell. Liberty Crack on left of...
The 3rd class ledge system is clearly visible at t...
BETA PHOTO: The 3rd class ledge system is clearly visible at t...
Climbers above Lithuanian Lip.
Climbers above Lithuanian Lip.
Beginning the 2nd pitch on mostly fixed gear.
Beginning the 2nd pitch on mostly fixed gear.
2nd pitch linked with scramble.
2nd pitch linked with scramble.

Comments on Liberty Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 27, 2009

Approach (pitch) unroped on 4th class is a little spicy in tennies. Scrambling up in rock shoes would have been better, setting up first belay below the 11 pitch.
We did the crux aid move w/o a hook. Would have been nice, but we didn't think it was needed. But do bring the offsets and micros, you will use them. Superb route.
By BenCooper
From: Wyoming
Sep 7, 2010

This is a truly classic line up a strikingly steep face, one of the longest sheer granite cliffs in the state. We climbed it in two days, employing the usual fixing of ropes to the top of P3. Fast parties should be able to get up this thing in a long day, and knowing the route now, this is how I would climb it.

There is a ton of fixed gear on this route, including several pins spread out over the free pitches. The aid was straightforward. The hook move is not necessary, but is awesome nonetheless, and why not? It's worth it just to place a hook that could hold a fall!

Anchors are all very good bolts or decently sized trees. Thank you to the party(ies) responsible for placing these and some of the newer protection bolts.
By quinndalina
From: Estes Park
Aug 20, 2011

Still snow on the approach, as of 8/13. My only beef was the SHIT on the ledge top of pitch 6 or 7!
If you have to take a shit don't leave it on the ledge MF. PACK IT OUT!
By dirtbag
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 5, 2011

I'm not a badass free climber or anything and we got it done in 4.5 hrs base to summit with a bit of simulclimbing up to 5.8 and short-fixing the pitches low on the route. Fixed anchors made this easy on us.

If you want to enchain with Thin Red Line as we did (which for comparison took us 8-9 hrs), look into possibly rappelling back to the base instead of hiking off the back then to the black asphalt road (HOT!!!!), which took 3.5 hrs from the notch at the base of the becky route to the start of TRL. If you opt to hike off the back (standard descent), it might be worth having a 2nd car to stash at that TH.

the snow at the base was sketchy with my slick soled tennies and no crampons.
By harihari
From: VANCOUVER
Jun 29, 2012

We did this easily in one day no fixing, leaving the car about 9:00 AM and the base of the route at around 11. We finished the raps and the descent gully as it was getting dark.

We brought two alpine aiders for each of us (very light), no pins hammers etc but if I did it again I would bring a couple of bashies, some of those 3-pronged hooks and a hammer as some of the bashies are crap.

I would bring a light alpine axe, no crampons, and not too much gear. Once you are done the roof pitch (bomber A1) which is pretty straightforward the rest is cruiser.

Great route in superb position.
By jdm
Jan 8, 2013

I'll agree with dirtbag and hari. We went car to car in 9.5 hours (7:00 > 4:30), no fixing. This was 22 Sept 2000. It was snowing the night before as we bivvied by the car but the morning was clear as a (Liberty) bell. I was expecting scary old bolts but to my delight it had just been re-bolted.

A question though... where do you use hooks? We only had a regular rack of nuts and Friends.
By jim.dangle
Jul 29, 2013

The link for the route description is in accurate. Steph's Abegg's excellent description can be found here:

sites.google.com/site/stephabe...

Jim