Liberty Cap is located between Mt. Broderick and Nevada falls on the John Muir Trail. Climbing in such an iconic setting is just part of the draw to this dome. Warren Harding made his mark, right up the middle as usual, completing the First ascent of the SW face. It was on this ascent that the practice of drilling holes for upward progression(bathooking)was first used.
The stone is bullet hard Half Dome granodiorite. With it's many splitter cracks and huge corners, Liberty cap tends to be very cam friendly on most of the routes. The summit offers a 360 degree view of little yosemite valley, Mt. Starking, and the huge S. face of Half dome.
Begin by starting on the "Mist" trail which is the start of the JMT. You will follow the trail past Vernal Falls, across a bridge, where Liberty Cap finally comes into full view. As you make your way toward Nevada Falls, right when the trail touches the apron, you head climbers left along the base. Follow this down and around to the Western end of the formation.
A large diagonal approach ledge is gained at the far left end of the base. Great care is necessary along this ledge especially if you are shuttling gear. Many spots along the way are loose.
There is a rappel anchor located at the start of the SW face route. A 2 rope rappel to an intermediate anchor on the face , then another 2 rope rappel to the ground brings you to the base directly under the middle of the wall. Another option is to haul from these anchors if you fix 2 ropes down to the ground for your ascent.
Climbing Season For the Yosemite Valley area.
Weather station 2.3 miles from here
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Liberty Cap
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Liberty Cap:
Featured Route For Liberty Cap
Southwest Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Yosemite National Park
: ... : Liberty Cap
There are many big wall grade V trade routes in the valley, from the West Face of Leaning Tower to the Prow to the South Face of Washington Column. Each of these has one thing in common: the Valley. If you'd like an experience just slightly off the beaten path, consider the Southwest Face of Liberty Cap. You'll be accompanied by views of the Merced River and Nevada Falls more so than people in cars looking up at you while you're looking down at them. Although the SW Face is slightly harder t...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By burlap submariner
Apr 11, 2013
Anyone know of routes that exist on the north west(slabby) face of liberty cap?