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Liar King 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Amason 2007
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: longfeather on Mar 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Pitch 1(5.9-, 165):

Start 5 meters right of the inset that is the beginning of The Second Coming. Your back is to the chimney canyon trail. This start is R and more fun, note there is crack way right for pro though off route enough to be pain for second. Climb 10m to a bulge and continue through the right facing bushy chimney to clean 5.8 OW (right of Rapture). Belay at a two bolt anchor that is shared with Rapture.

Pitch 2 (5.7+):

Climb straight up from the rapture bolt anchor through chossy 5.5 to a cool block. Climb the block to a stance( small ledge) just about 20 feet left of The Second Coming. There is a small crack for a belay at your feet. You are Left of Second Comings large left facing dihedral.

Pitch 3 (5.10 r or 5.10 x):

Climb straight up through interesting terrain. Pass over a bulge at the base of a large right facing dihedral (part of Second Coming) onto clean lower face. climb near an arete on right side of the face(5.10R) with tricky pro. It is more fun to climb face left through the 10x section. Way left is reckoning(TR from bolts)XXX 12a/b. Climb the lower face to a large upper headwall thin crack (10-). This crack is left of bolt/piton. The route summits to the right of Reckoning's anchor.

Liar King is link up from the ground to the headwall.

It's more fun than choss fest that is Second Coming.

Location 

Start 5 meters right of the inset that is the beginning of The Second Coming.

Protection 

P1: 4.5 Camalot
P2: standard Camalot rack
P3: double set of thin cams and small brass RP and HB offsets


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By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 20, 2008

I don't know what Liar King is but it is not the route you describe above. The route described by Nick is Second Coming and Andrew describes a variation of Second Coming. The route is a long established classic and I've been climbing Second Coming the way you describe Liar King for 18 years. I have done the route 30+ times and what you describe is certainly not anything new.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Aug 1, 2008

Fishing for a 5.9 first ascent right next to Second Coming ensures you are doing a second ascent of something somebody got lost on two decades ago and never bothered noting their climb. Telling John he is off route on Second Coming is even funnier.

Draw a good topo to show where the routes are relative to one another. That will make it much easier for those who would like to do the climb.

W
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 25, 2008

Wow, I thought this route was rated 5.9 now that its getting a 5.10+ X rating I have to admit I'm intrigued. I would really like to check this route out but I'm not completely clear where it goes from the description. Some of the features described I'm very familiar with. The pitch 1 5.8OW is Second Coming then to anchors on Rapture, sure I'm still with you. Pitch 2 is where the confusion comes but I think I understand where you are talking about. Pitch 3 sounds like you're left of Second Coming on what might be some cool new terrain and heady as well. From the ledge and the 1 bolt/pin anchor it sounds like you are heading up the classic 10a on the headwall. Again a topo or picture would be really handy.
By Paul Davidson
Oct 27, 2008

Other than the low pitches, which have certainly been done before (or least in various forms), isn't the real climb here the beautiful face just below the headwall ? The one you stare down while hanging off the headwall belay ?
By longfeather
From: Albuqurque ,NM
Mar 14, 2010

Link ups are routesin my experience,and yes I agree third pitch is best and worth the frustration of climbing something climbed before, WE chalked this up good last year , and yes i still contend this is no second comming var mainly cause it takes you way off route for SC or SC VAR,, but Im sure the rock will be there this year , doesnt need bolt P3 goes 10 hardpro, thin lower face is xish though equalizing small cams is seeming to hold.

look for thin seams on lower face below big headwall ledge ( when on big ledge below headwall look down face below you)( right side 10ish left side 12ish) (right of rapture immeadately left of right facing dihedral SC VAR. SC VAR which is as you all have stated an old VAR of SC. some of these seams are horiz some verticle . much harder than 5.8- of VAR but moderate no less. Its easy to TR and finish on blank headwall 12ish face.
Please forgive Nick and Eddy who wrote this route up origionally neither knew where they were, I diddnt plan to publish cause Im more interested in completing harded route to right

My goal was to link head wall to ground not decipher olden VARS that just rejoin SC or Bunghole God bless you all , Ive been hangn in Questa....Promise to draw better got focused on fatherhood work etc