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BETA PHOTO: Green=approximate approach Red=approximate climb
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I wish I could make the title say 5.10 safe, 5.7R because the crux takes all the gear you want. Great line directly up the center of a great formation! Really fun climb with thin face, knobs, cracks, off-width, and everything in between. The crux is very well protected, but some of the easier pitches are run out or rely on slinging knobs and some old bolts. Can be climbed for most of the year, but the road closes in winter and it may get too hot for wusses from the coast in the summer.
P1: Climbs up past a bolt to the yellow rectangle at the base of the knobby wall. (5.9)
P2: Follow the base of the wall up and left until you get to big knobs. Take the knobs up to condor watch ledge. (5.8)
P3: Move right along the ledge and climb up more knobs, past a few old bolts, to a three bolt anchor at a small stance. (5.7)
P4: Follow the ramp up and left towards the obvious corner. (5.7R)
P5: Follow the corner through cracks from wide hands to OW and lie backs until you get to a stance at the bottom of the obvious dihedral crux pitch. (5.10)
P6: Climb the corner, place a piece near the top to protect the follower, and belay from the far right end of the ledge. (5.10)
P7: Head up and right from the right end of the ledge. Find the path of least resistance. (5.8 PG-13)
To get there: Take the stairs until you get a view west, hop the railing and head down/left to a 2 bolt anchor, rap down to the big brushy zacolo ledge, follow the ledge south and down some 3rd class until you're on condor watch ledge, two bolted raps from the end of this ledge reach the ground (125' and 165'). Need two ropes or a tag line for the raps.
Hmmm... Trying to remember.
Cams from small to 5" with extra in the 2.5" range for the crux
Set of nuts
Slings for knobs
Looking up the first pitch from the base.
By J. Albers
Nov 7, 2012
Nice addition Dan, thanks.