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 ADVANCED
Seven Falls Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Holy Grail, The T 
Left Leaning Crack T 
Leviticus S 
Unsorted Routes:

Leviticus 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA, Kevin Brown. FFA, Steve Edwards
Page Views: 1,103
Submitted By: andy patterson on Aug 23, 2010

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Transition to the lie-back. Awkward and technical....

Description 

This route sees few ascents, partly because it sits all by its lonesome in an off-beat location, and partly because it is absurdly hard. Leviticus isn't THE most difficult climb on the central coast from a grade perspective, but it is certainly one of the most technically challenging. At 5.12d, it doesn't give an inch, and touts one of the more memorable—and painful—cruxes for miles in all directions. If you can link through the bottom three bolts of this vicious and powerful line, you will likely have some shredded skin on at least one of your digits. And then the pump starts...

Without giving too much away, here's the breakdown:

1) tie in, get nervous
2) perform a stupid hard finger-lock boulder problem (V7 or V8)
3) Grunt in pain
4) Transition in to lie-back section of route
5) Don't get tired before you get to the anchors

Location 

Steep face on right side of creek before you get to the actual Seven Falls area (for those not "in-the-know", I'm talking about the swimming holes). The overhanging crack is unmistakable.

Protection 

Six bolts to open shuts.


Photos of Leviticus Slideshow Add Photo
Bearing down in to the finger-lock crux.
Bearing down in to the finger-lock crux.
Awesome and pumpy to the top.
Awesome and pumpy to the top.
Just before the top-out, which, if you're not care...
Just before the top-out, which, if you're not care...

Comments on Leviticus Add Comment
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By Jack Hereford
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 9, 2015

Part of the first pencil sharpener has broken off... it was clearly Ian Bloom up to his typical sandbaggery
By Ian Bloom
Mar 9, 2015

Jack Hereford blew out the jam with his sausage fingers. Don't worry, it's probably just as hard as before.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 9, 2015

Don't worry, the first jam isn't the crux. This route has seen multiple breakages (read: a breakage every time someone tries to redpoint it), but it still holds true at the grade.
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