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levitation 29... pitch 5 on gear?
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Dec 7, 2012
priest draw bat roof
Not trying to get into an ethical battle, just wondering if its common to go sans bolts. Mike Ecker
From phoenix
Joined Jan 2, 2008
25 points
Dec 7, 2012
i've heard you can do it on gear, but based on my vague memory of that pitch, it'd be thin and spaced a bit.

i doubt many folks bother with trying- the ease of the climb with the bolts and the long hike make the idea of lugging a big rack up there less than appealing.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,377 points
Dec 8, 2012
priest draw bat roof
Thanks john! I'm sure I will clip every bolt I see. Then (after dialing it in) if I have the cojones, try it on gear! Mike Ecker
From phoenix
Joined Jan 2, 2008
25 points
Dec 9, 2012
Which way again?
I did it about half and half on my first time on the route. Was sketching pretty hard back then on all the spinning, white rock hardware I saw when I was new to the area, figured I'd rather trust TCUs than the alternative. Bring a #3 if you're trying this, it's the crux piece, and protects the best rest on the pitch. You'll most likely give up the game on the last fifty feet or so, it's a sport climb and running up it skipping bolts with no other gear would seem pretty silly unless you're up for essentially soloing the route. What gear I got in I felt pretty good about, it was fun gumbying up the route dragging a "super strong Euro" who had to aid on most of the draws I clipped on that upper section. A lot of fun memories of that day, thought the second pitch was harder for me than the fifth (gym laps give retard strength), getting human faeces on the rope before making it onto the second pitch (classy spot to poo, Special Someone), learning that we were climbing on a chopped 70 9.1 while rapping (Euro smarts strike again, thanks "bro"), and some great rock and moves. Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points


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