|By Zappatista |
Dec 9, 2012
I did it about half and half on my first time on the route. Was sketching pretty hard back then on all the spinning, white rock hardware I saw when I was new to the area, figured I'd rather trust TCUs than the alternative. Bring a #3 if you're trying this, it's the crux piece, and protects the best rest on the pitch. You'll most likely give up the game on the last fifty feet or so, it's a sport climb and running up it skipping bolts with no other gear would seem pretty silly unless you're up for essentially soloing the route. What gear I got in I felt pretty good about, it was fun gumbying up the route dragging a "super strong Euro" who had to aid on most of the draws I clipped on that upper section. A lot of fun memories of that day, thought the second pitch was harder for me than the fifth (gym laps give retard strength), getting human faeces on the rope before making it onto the second pitch (classy spot to poo, Special Someone), learning that we were climbing on a chopped 70 9.1 while rapping (Euro smarts strike again, thanks "bro"), and some great rock and moves.