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Leviathan
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Joe Terravecchia & Karin Bates. Sept 1995 |
Page Views: | 2,251 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Joe Terravecchia on Aug 28, 2014 |
Admins: | David Bruneau |
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Description
1) Beautiful thin crack to bolt protected face moves. 5.10a
2) Step left and climb cracks to the base of a clean R facing corner. 5.8
3) Climb the crack above the belay to a bolt protected face move. Undercling left and climb finger crack / small R facing corner. 10a. Alternatively, climb the corner instead at 5.9.
4) Climb the short vertical R facing corner to face moves leading to twin diagonal cracks. 5.9+.
5) Climb past a bolt then more easily to a ledge with a large block. 5.10a
6) Climb up the R facing corner to a 2nd R facing corner. At its top, step right and climb small left facing corner to a small belay ledge. 5.11b
7) Protecting high and traversing low, cross over the rib to the right. Belay in an alcove at the base of a large corner system. 5.10b. The Angishore Finish continues up the corner above to an exposed belay on the left. 5.9+ and 200' of 4th class to the top.
8) Traverse left past a large L facing corner. Get protection in the corner and continue left crossing over a small R facing corner. Belay beneath a R facing corner. 5.10a.
9) Climb past bolts to reach the exposed exit corner. 5.12a.
10) 200' 4th & easy 5th class.
2) Step left and climb cracks to the base of a clean R facing corner. 5.8
3) Climb the crack above the belay to a bolt protected face move. Undercling left and climb finger crack / small R facing corner. 10a. Alternatively, climb the corner instead at 5.9.
4) Climb the short vertical R facing corner to face moves leading to twin diagonal cracks. 5.9+.
5) Climb past a bolt then more easily to a ledge with a large block. 5.10a
6) Climb up the R facing corner to a 2nd R facing corner. At its top, step right and climb small left facing corner to a small belay ledge. 5.11b
7) Protecting high and traversing low, cross over the rib to the right. Belay in an alcove at the base of a large corner system. 5.10b. The Angishore Finish continues up the corner above to an exposed belay on the left. 5.9+ and 200' of 4th class to the top.
8) Traverse left past a large L facing corner. Get protection in the corner and continue left crossing over a small R facing corner. Belay beneath a R facing corner. 5.10a.
9) Climb past bolts to reach the exposed exit corner. 5.12a.
10) 200' 4th & easy 5th class.
- I believe all but the first belay has 2 bolts. If rapping the route, use the anchors at the top of Screech for the final rap to the traverse ledge.
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