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This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall and climbs 30 feet of 10a terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left and up on more difficult rock for another 45 feet. The steep section just after the first anchor is especially thoughtful and fun.
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, then 4 more to another 2 bolts.
The 10a first pitch on a 38 degree morning in Octo...
Above the crux on the popular 10a "first pitch".
Climber at the two-bolt anchor atop the first pitc...
Richard Rossiter on Leviathon, Dream Canyon, photo...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 1, 2001
Young Doug - This is a nice route, and I found the last thirty feet to be really exciting with small feet and thin holds to clip draws from! Do this one! you won't be dissappointed. Ps..Hey Ox! Whaassuupp!
|By Jay Hippel|
From: Denver, CO
Jun 13, 2003
1st pitch is a fun 10a if you're not an 11 climber, 35-40 feet.
|By Jonathan. D.|
Jun 16, 2003
The First Pitch makes for an Excellent 10a. Really fun lead, the crux is probably the first bolt.
|By Richard Rossiter|
Oct 30, 2003
FA Update: Leviathon was first climbed via TR by R. Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. I placed the bolts on this route during the summer of 1997. Steve Sangdahl led it successfully the next day.
|By Michael Kullman|
Sep 19, 2004
The 10a start is one of the nicer bits of moderate sport climbing I have done around Boulder. Kudos to whoever was nice enough to put the extra anchors at the end of this section.
|By Luke Evans|
Sep 7, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
You can do the whole route with a 60m and you don't even get rope drag! The crux seam is AMAZING!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 9, 2005
I really enjoyed the route. The seam crux was excellent ... but still, I think it was more like 5.11b, Let's not get carried away with the ratings here. The only place this might get a 12a rating is sport park.
|By Rob Kepley|
Aug 28, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
I thought this pitch was pretty sustained. The moves off the belay were a little committing. Pulling the final bulge was strenuous. I really enjoyed this climb.
|By Robbie the Dog|
Aug 5, 2007
I went left at the top (not the fork at the low anchors, the upper fork) and found it both tricky and strenuous...clipping the last bolt was very balance-y from the stance I found. I thought it substantially harder than 11b done that way. I didn't try the right-upper fork, but the guide said it was a tad easier...
|By Aeon Aki|
Jun 29, 2008
Though short lived, the crux sequence felt every bit as hard as Sargasso Sea or Creatures from the Black Lagoon. It is thin with a puzzling sequence and is extremely friction dependent.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Aug 26, 2008
Leviathan (for those searching on the correct spelling) does have a puzzling cruz and deserves the 11d, in my opinion. The crux moves are nonintuitive and delicate. At the 9th bolt, I stemmed right, then moved up the left foot, and cranked in the seam onto the left foot with a move that started as a pull with the left hand and ended as a downward push in the seam with the right index finger. This was not yet the end, as I was still short of the upper ledge. Another slab move on a small pinch and small footholds helped me gain this.
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2009
Good long moves and a tricky crux (although there is a bomber jug to hang out on while you figure it out!)
May 22, 2011
Tough onsight, but once you unlock the crux, it starts to feel the grade.
|By Bob Rotert|
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Thoughtful moves and balancy climbing. Although rated the same. I didn't think it compared in difficulty to Black Lagoon. Black Lagoon felt at least a letter grade or two harder to me. Maybe by just moving left a bit at the bolt for the crux it makes it easier? I found some small finger tip edges and I think ended up standing up on the good flat hold with my right foot and then doing a balancy foot shuffle to clip the next bolt. I remember very little for the hands once your standing on the flat hold.
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Sep 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps.