Levada 

Fun route, very dirty but will clean up with traffic. There is a run-out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt as well. If you take the easy way to the right it's not bad, but if you stick to the arete then be careful because a fall could land you on the ground. This section will take gear, probably a #1 C4 or smaller.

I agree -- a little dirty, especially if you wander right (which I did several times), but based on how many climbers followed me Sunday, I'd say the loose dirt and lichen won't last long. There are two short runouts through easier sections: between bolts 2 and 3, and between the last bolt and the anchors. But it's very doable.

I did this today and thought it was more challenging than the 5.9 Made in the Shade because of the loose rock, but that should go away eventually. I did it without any gear, but I would consider bringing a #1-#2 cam for the long run out on easy ground between the last bolt and the anchor. If you made it that far, you probably won't fall, but it is a long way to the top from the last bolt.

Just on this today. About midway up I pulled on a jug sidepull that completely tore off, almost hitting my belayer. Beware of loose holds on the right side of the climb. Also, it blew my 5.8 onsight, which I track on www.8a.nu.

When we, the FA party, envisioned this route and bolted it, the line we climbed went straight up past the first two bolts then worked over to the arete on the left and climbed straight up that past three bolts then up the headwall above past three more bolts to the anchor. We spent two days cleaning the loose rock and lichen, bushes, etc. from this line.

There is a gully to the right of the arete which contains some loose rock, bushes, etc. which is off the climbing line we bolted. Obviously, we can't dictate where people climb, but if you want to climb on rock which is most likely cleaner, then follow the line of the bolts.

Bruce

Fun route...took a bunch of new climber friends up there this last weekend...still a very dirty route and we had some good-sized rocks come off while we were climbing...but some people did go far off route and into the gully. Beginning is a little bouldery but good moves!

Today, my partner Dale and I, the original FA party, added a bolt on the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are now nine (9) bolts on the route. We also did a bunch of cleaning in the gully to the right of the climbing line.

Really fun lead. Getting to the first bolt is a bit iffy (have a spotter) and that last 20 feet between bolts is a bit terrifying for a new leader (didn't have this beta until I was looking down the barrel of the gun). Resist the temptation to move too far right of the bolts, or that last clip is gonna be an eye-opener, requiring a small traverse left of crimps.

The line is good if you stay on the arete, bad if you move into the gully.

For some reason, this route is killer on the legs. I think it's because all the "resting" stances keep your legs at some kind of angle that strains the muscles. The secret is to keep moving - the longer you stand resting, the more it'll hurt.

FYI: there are wasps in the small crack 12 inches below the 3rd bolt. Can easily skip third bolt by climbing right and clipping 4th bolt.
Cheers!!!

Definite runout between the last bolt and the anchors.

Easy climbing from there, but slips happen, rock gives way, and it's going to be an ugly whipper.

This was a fun route, but it felt harder than its 5.9 neighbor down the way, "Made in the Shade." Anyone else agree?

Warmed up with this route today. I am finding the new climbs in Clear Creek to have an inflated rating of difficulty. This climb compared to Eldo or even Golden Cliffs would rate no higher than a 7+. If this keeps up you might think you are a better climber than you are, until you dare to get on a Layton Kor 5.9. I would recommend keeping the ratings conservative for the respect of the crag and developer.

There is a missing hanger on the 5th-6th bolt (I don't remember which one at the moment). Be prepared for a long mid section run-out.

Without that hanger on the bolt, the climb is now PG-13.

Replaced the missing hanger and bolt on this route today. As a bit of history this particular bolt, the sixth on the route, was a spinner and a climber felt it was safer to remove the nut, washer and hanger rather than to hand tighten the nut.

Personally, I would disagree with this decision. It seems to me to be safer to hand tighten the nut and then either come back with the appropriate wrench to properly tighten it or tell someone who is more qualified about the problem so they can properly tighten it.

To avoid further problems, I added 3/8" SS lock washers to all the bolts.

Also, I removed the chains and added Mussy Hooks to the quicklinks. Those not familiar with how to use Mussy Hooks at an anchor should obtain proper information. As a quick summary, these are beefy steel hooks, and while it is poor form to belay and lower through chains or rings, it is advised to belay and lower through Mussy Hooks. Those not comfortable with this setup have the option of clipping draws through the quicklinks or the hooks themselves.

Thanks to Ron Olsen for donating the hooks. Thanks to the Lord of the Canal, Kirk Miller, for retrieving the hanger, washer, and nut which were taken off the 6th bolt. Happy and safe climbing!

Bruce: I have put up a few routes on Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, AZ and was given a bunch of the EXACT same hooks (china stamp etc...). I really liked them and how easy they were to use until one of the gates got DESTROYED by just pulling a rope (that was a bit twisted) through it, I still have that one it if you want to see it, but regardless I no longer endorse them. Food for thought....
Just my $0.02....
Thanks anyways, it is the thought that counts.

Regarding the route. The crux is getting to the 1st bolt, but solid throughout. Good hand but tricky feet. Spot your climber till they get the 1st bolt clipped.