Type: Snow, Alpine, 5300 ft (1606 m), Grade II
FA: Jim Mount, Ralph Calkin - Sept 4 1932
Page Views: 19,437 total · 88/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 1, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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This is a fine route that opens up spectacular views of the Reid glacier and inspiring views of Yokum Ridge.

While technically it doesn't require much more skill than the southside route, the Leuthold's couloir route entails crossing some crevassed terrain and avalanche prone slopes.

The usual start is the same as South side routes.  Ascend to the top of the Palmer lift, then follow a rising traverse to Illumination Saddle (between Illumination Rock and Castle Crags).  After crossing over the saddle drop down onto the Reid glacier. Traverse the Reid toward Yokum Ridge, passing several couloirs on the right until you basically hit the steep wall of Yokum ridge. Once there turn right and enter into Leuthold couloir proper.  Note that parties sometimes turn up too early and end up on the Reid Headwall route by mistake.  Follow the couloir as it narrows and winds up the mountain. As the couloir ends and opens up continue up easy slopes to the summit ridge and onto the summit.

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