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As is typical for the Frankenjura, this crag offers up a lot of variety in the sense of degree of steepness of the routes. They range from about 70° to 180° (some small roofs). However, the limestone here is a bit more compact, providing the occasional trademark Frankenjura pocket, but leaving me more with the impression that these routes prefer climbing crimps and slopers. Also a little exceptional is the amount of crack climbing available here. There are some really good crack climbs here, and of course most are bolted, but there are a few that you'll need at least a little gear for.
From Nürnberg head north on the A9 and exit at exit 46. Turn right toward Betzenstein. Drive straight through Betzenstein and continue toward Leupoldstein. Take the first left in Leupoldstein and continue straight when this road joins the main road again. Either park near the Gasthaus (restaurant) called "Zur Post" or continue to the end of town and park in a little pull-off on the left right at the edge of town (you'll know you're at the right spot if there is a vegetated cliff in front of you). If you park in the second option, walk uphill back towards the Gasthaus. Then enter the gap to the right of the Gasthaus and continue to a path through a field. You'll be able to see the cliffs from here.
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Featured Route For Leupoldsteiner Wände
Hallux Valgus 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Europe : Germany : ... : Leupoldsteiner Wand North
This route might be a little easier if you could stick to the damn rock! The crux has a polished smear! The first bolt is pretty low and isn't of much use, and there's another bolt in the middle of the crux which located perfectly where you're standing on said crap smear, making it pretty much foolish to clip it. Aside from those complaints, this route is really cool!Climb the moderate rock to get to the second bolt and balance your way up to the third bolt. I used two gastons to manage to reach...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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