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lets make it a habbit to cut and replace old dilapidated slings off rap stations.
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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

People there are too many accidents caused by failed stations due to old slings.


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Jul 24, 2012
Me and Spearhead

Not saying it's a bad idea but I can't recall that old webbing failing has been the cause of many rappel accidents. Correct me if I'm wrong.


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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Jul 24, 2012
Mathematical!

BigJuggsjohnson wrote:
lets make it a habbit to cut and replace old dilapidated slings off rap stations.


Ellenor, I'm pretty sure it already is a habit for most people. If you don't trust it, replace it. Seems like common sense to me.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

If I see old slings I cut and replace them but I've noticed the clusters of old slings in different stages of decay quite frequently on East coast and on top of some ice routes especially.


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By Eric Coffman
Jul 24, 2012
mountainlion

Red River Gorge was the last place I heard of old webbing failing and I believe both climbers died happened in the last 2 years I think. In light of what has happened recently it should open our eyes to try to help those to young,poor,inexperienced,or whatever to not trust old slings just remove them and remove the chance that someone else who doesnt know any better for whatever reason gets hurt. No Derek I dont need your input in advance.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

On rappell is when most accidents happen. Things like weather , night, tiredness, heat , cold new territory or hard to find desent all influence our ability to deal with stressors. Its a part of training im sure though if there was less cluster at the belay stations (multiple old slings) it would make things easier. I remember on many occasions trying to fit my locker over multiple slings, when I was new thinking more is better. Im not saying we all should feel obligated to clean up every rap station to perfection but using common sence and cutting off unnecessary slings would not only be aestetically pleasing but also safer. Yes especially for the new inexperienced climbers. This is just a suggestion . If it reaches some and a fraction of those will cut off old slings its just that many noobs are not going to potentially have an epic clipping into them.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jul 24, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

www.mountainproject.com/v/107689270. 4% of accidents are attributed to anchor failure. So yes, many accidents do happen on rappel, but anchor failure is not the major cause. Complacency is the culprit.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 24, 2012
OTL

Lets cut the tat when there's an easily doable walkoff too. No need to replace that stuff.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

There was a discussion on tat on trees and how pampered climbers never learn but in my opinion its just being messy just like leaving trash or poop bags. If u rap off a sling and trust it then leave it. If u think the station is disgustingly cluttered clean it up. Potential for stuck gear and rope plus just simple frustration. The problem is that not everybody carriers a knife and people hurry up to get off the route to do some housekeeping in the process.


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By Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Jul 24, 2012

Matt N wrote:
Lets cut the tat when there's an easily doable walkoff too. No need to replace that stuff.


But I don't have to walkoff at the GYM!!


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Jul 24, 2012
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

BigJuggsjohnson wrote:
People there are too many accidents caused by failed stations due to old slings.

This sounds like a troll to me since I almost never hear about accidents caused by this.
Be that as it may, I was wondering about appropriateness, in places that have slung rocks for belays, is it ok to lug up some chain and quick links and just create a clean anchor once and for all. In a place like the Flatirons would that be violating the fixed anchor approval process? Since it's not necessarily "fixed" depending on how tight you screw quick links seems like a grey area but would definitely be much cleaner in my opinion.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 24, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

devkrev wrote:
But I don't have to walkoff at the GYM!!

we should start


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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From Albuquerque, NM
Jul 24, 2012

Bite me Troll.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

Troll this troll that troll shcmoll. Its sad to see how much crap hangs on trees out there. Bring a knife cut the crap and pack it out. I am always gonna be cutting off that from now on. Seriously!


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By mitchy
From nunya gotdamn business.
Jul 24, 2012

How many of you have ever cut off a bra, or a pair of panties.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

This is a serious thread actually not a troll. Btw bringing a knife and webbing on multipitch routes along with a couple extra Leaver lockers is crucial. Im liking to use tripples length slings for stations lately but its an expensive leave piece!


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Jul 24, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

mitchy wrote:
How many of you have ever cut off a bra, or a pair of panties.


Does it count if you used your teeth? As long as you severed the fabric, right?


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

Yo all need to go find yourselves! Btw Cosmo has nothing on MP! NOTHING! hahaha


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By Count Chockula
From Littleton, CO
Jul 24, 2012
Count Chockula

If your ability to effectively determine tat from non-tat (and whether or not it should be removed) is anything like your grasp of the English language and the layout of a QWERTY keyboard, Lord help us all.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

Heck I can tell tat! Indeedy I can!


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

I will be the judge of what's tat and what's not! Oh boy I can't wait to get to the next rap station tree with my jagged edge! That's my mission!


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By nbrown
From western NC
Jul 24, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

mitchy wrote:
How many of you have ever cut off a bra, or a pair of panties.


I have, but I'm a paramedic, so it's all good. However, and speaking of tat, I would've rather had left most of them alone...


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By mitchy
From nunya gotdamn business.
Jul 24, 2012

I feel your pain bra, i see things of that nature ALL the time also.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

I have a very good knife!


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

Off subject : I've cut some pants off people. Its pretty empowering in a strange way....


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By mitchy
From nunya gotdamn business.
Jul 24, 2012

I've got the best knife on the planet, Spyder Co. rescue, the Atlantic Salt. Cuts everything WELL, pants , bras, panties , people you name it.


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