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(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Kashmir S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

The Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008

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This route lies between Red Eye and Critical Mass. It ascends up a skiny black streak, using edges and slopers. The crux comes just after the second clip and consists of a hard sloper move, but some tricky crimps just before are hard too. Approach from Thai Stick or Mr. Bentley and clip the bolt left of the Thai Stick anchors or the anchors themselves. The next bolt is a bit spooky and hard to clip. Finish the route to the Red Eye anchors or into Kashmir. There is a piton between the last bolt and the Red Eye anchors.


The route is located on the Red Wall, just above Thai Stick.



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By peachy spohn
Sep 15, 2008

After the sloper "crux" it is possible to reach out right to a large hold on Critical Mass. This makes the route easier, because one can shake out and chalk up. The route through this section is therefore contrived...the grade given represents moving through the route without the hold to the right. Either way, it is still a fun and energetic route.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 24, 2014

Is this the old route called "The Conspiracy"? described as squeezed between Red Eye and Critical Mass. Originally graded 11+?
By peachy spohn
Oct 26, 2014

@ Micah Klesick, it appears to be called this in Mr. Olson's 2011/4th Edition to the Portland Rock Climbs. I can say that the main bolt on the climb is old and rusted and every time I clip it my heart begins to beat a little faster. Also, there is a way to escape to Critical Mass, but even by doing this escape I feel the grade is harder than 11+. If you avoid Critical Mass (yes, somewhat contrived) then the grade is stout 12b. I have been climbing it since 2008 and probably should replace the bolt, because it is fun and should see more traffic! Hope this helps and hopefully I'll get around to changing out that bolt for next season.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 26, 2014

I can replace it if you want, I received 150 bolts from the ASCA to rebolt Broughtons. Planning do some replacement this winter, more next spring/summer. Interested in helping? We could use a strong rope gun at the least, not to mention an experienced bolter.
Also, the old aid line left of Dracula, is that your project? I was going to replace those anchors as well, and the bolts on Fright Night.
Contact me if you are interested or have suggestions for bolt replacement!
By peachy spohn
Oct 30, 2014

I am definitely willing to help! I have been wanting to rebolt frightnight for a while and would def. do that one myself if you have the bolts available! I placed the new bolts on the old Tom Scales project that veers off of Dracula, and am not sure about the Aid Line (unless they are the same, but I thought the aid line began left and continued up the slab to the old red webbing). As far as other routes go I can send you an email. Thanks for getting this going and for all the work!

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