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Let's Do The Trad 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dirk Saenger, Edgar Boehm (2003)
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Lao Dieh, doing work


This route will test your ability to remain composed amongst loose rock and questionable protection. If you're not looking for alpine training, just do the first pitch.

P1 - Two stars. Start up slightly overhanging rock with big features and tricky placements, or clip bolts up the slab to the right. At the ledge, continue straight up a broken crack system with a fixed cam (5.9, 3" gear), or go right up a meandering crack that traverses back left. Finish on easy rock to a nice belay ledge with a two-bolts-and-webbing anchor.

P2 - Bomb. Step left into the slabby, grassy choss and then up into the chunky, loose dihedral. Hopefully you can get some decent gear in here. Climb delicately, cruxing through some big pulls on questionable blocks, until the dihedral narrows, and gun it to the big grassy ledge. To the right are the bolts for the second pitch of Bicolor, which you can use to belay if you want.

P3 - Bomb. Try not to slip on the grass, and continue into the corner chimney to the right, find whatever gear you can, and finish on the ledge. Two raps with a 60m will get you down.


On the Euro Wall, just to the left of Climax and Tofu Tower.


Gear to 3". Slings.

All three sets of anchors rebolted with titanium (2014)

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