All Locations > Texas > Austin Area > Reimers Ranch > Sex Canyon

Let Them Eat Flake

Name: Let Them Eat Flake
Rating: 3.1

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Sex Canyon

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Hyper Salivation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Learning to Fly S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	O.R.A.L (aka ORB) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pavlovian Response S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Telegraph Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA:	Jeff Jackson
Page Views:	3,733 total · 20/month
Shared By:	LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Dec 3, 2008
Admins:	mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Step to the right off of the boulder onto the face, work up to a jug sidepull. Then some difficult moves off of sidepulls with limited feet leads to the flake. Jugs take you out the steepening wall to an anchor over the lip.

Easiest to clean by top roping.

Location

Shimmy up the broken corner onto the ledge, the route climbs straight up from here but it is easier to step left onto the boulder and back right onto the wall.