Let Them Eat Cake  5.11c/d R

563 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet FA:  Marc Gay and Brad Bond New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Brad Bond on Jun 14, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

"Let Them Eat Cake" follows the exposed flake system and arete on the steep, licheny wall between "West Chimney" and "Western Union," providing several technical and pumpy cruxes in tricky-to-protect situations. This route was established headpoint style, i.e. cleaned and susses on toprope, then led placing gear. It has seen a second ascent, but still awaits an onsight!

Start atop pitch one of the West Chimney. Make a tricky stem past a #4 Camalot to gain the flake system on the wall to your left. Continue out the flake and more hard moves to gain a good stance just left of the arete (crux, good gear). Make a commiting move straight up the arete to a jug and good gear; follow the exposed arete to easier ground and eventually the large belay ledge as for "West Buttress," "Hair City," etc.

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack up to 3" and a #4 Camalot. Bring extra Tech-Friends 0.5"-1". Double ropes would help.