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Retirement Rock
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COLA (Cost of Living Allowance). S 
Early Bird Special S 
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Let the Daylight In S 
NW Arete T 
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Senior Discount S 

Let the Daylight In 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 6, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: We only got to the 3rd bolt on lead. The crux come...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start just right of the arete on the west face. Make a hard move left past the first bolt. Several hard moves get you to a dish and bad holds. Crank the crux moves and power up and left to the arete. Follow the bolts to the anchor.

Protection 

Six bolts will get you to a two bolt anchor.


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By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 20, 2007
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I went up to do this route, today, and broke the crux handhold off. It was a good edge, and it is now a bad sloper. The route felt like 12- with it, but it is solid 5.12 without it. I was up there with Matt Samet, and he redpointed it without the hold. He said it is probably 12b/c now. The third clip is harder.

Be careful standing on the detached blocks at the first bolt. A basketball-size chunk broke off, when I stepped on it, and almost took out my belayer. Make sure that the belayer and rope pile are back far enough away from the wall in case the rest of this huge block goes. It is probably a hundred pounds, and could easily kill someone. It is not a matter of if but when.

Otherwise, this is an okay route.