Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Little Scraggy Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Craggy Tur T 
Into The Groove T 
Ken Trout's Route T 
Midlife Crisis Variation T 
Miss Manners S 
Past Tense T 
Second Thoughts T 
Shear Class T 
Two Jews Blues S 
Unknown 5.8 T 

Unknown 5.8 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ? '74 ish?
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Jul 28, 2011  with updates from rob bauer

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The dreaded "piece of garbage" 3rd bolt: Star Dryv...

Description 

This is to the left of Let Me Cry.

We saw bolts and figured WTH. We thought it might be just another "modern" bolt line. I soon realized this was old school. The runout between bolts was the first clue. The exfoliating crux runout to the 2nd bolt was a dead giveaway that this was drilled on lead a long time ago. The excitement builds as you see that the 3rd bolt is an ancient piece of garbage. Finally, you grab the flake and can place a much needed piece of gear. Now you are safe, but it doesn't really matter, since the climbing is easy up to the anchor. They are not the greatest looking anchor bolts, but at least there are 3 and they held our weight....

We did not continue, but I believe the 2nd pitch heads up the crack above that arches right. At the end of this crack, you can step over left below the big overlap. Follow the path of least resistance up the obvious slab that breaches the overlap (5.9- no gear?). Head up a wide, dirty crack. It looks like you can reach the anchor atop P2 of Two Jews Blues to get down.

Hardly anybody does the regular runout 2nd pitch up left through the overlap to join Bachelor Party, or even the more likely variation suggested above which joins Let Me Cry up at the big (frequently wet) roofs.

Location 

A little ways left of Two Jews Blues, look for some bolts leading up a slab to a left-facing flake.

Protection 

First pitch: 3 bolts and a couple small pieces (small nut, a C4 green or smaller).


Photos of Unknown 5.8 Slideshow Add Photo
Cindy warming up the calves for a nice day of slab dancing....
Cindy warming up the calves for a nice day of slab...
Unknown 5.8, left of Let Me Cry.
BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.8, left of Let Me Cry.
Nice selection of crappy bolts.
Nice selection of crappy bolts.
Sunny day photo.
BETA PHOTO: Sunny day photo.

Comments on Unknown 5.8 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cindy Mitchell
Jul 29, 2011

Nice lead, Mark. Seems like every hold crumbled in my hands. The runout between bolt 1 and 2 is scary. Don't fall here.
By Alex A
Aug 10, 2011

Glad I did not do this climb, that day you and Cindy did it, (nice lead). This one looked like it would easy slab climbing, not! but runout.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 16, 2012

This is an unknown 5.8 in the new Haas guidebook. "Let Me Cry" goes up a crack to the right with no bolts on the first pitch.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jun 24, 2012

Yeah, I think pitch one of Let Me Cry is the crack immediately to the left of Two Jews. It looks like an awesome line, but it is full of bushes. If cleaned, it would surely increase in popularity.
The unnamed 5.8 is pretty fun but is very spicy between bolts one and two. The anchor is fine. We replaced the webbing and left a biner.