|Colchuck Balanced Rock
single #1 and #2 camalot, a single purple TCU/Blue Alien, and doubles from green alien to #1 Camalot, plus many wires.
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 26, 2013
A few thoughts: the rack beta posted here's a bit wonky. I think he's trying to say single #2 and 3 when he writes single #1 and 2. We brought a #3 and found it valuable. As far as the climbing, it's a stellar route. I'd read somewhere the word gymnastic used to describe the climbing. Tack committing on and you get the picture. It's killer.
Pitch 2 is incredible. Hands down best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3 is also really good. My partner stepped right a little early to a finger crack way right. I think this was off route, but had fun climbing. To do it right, stay mostly straight and work up and right near the top of the pitch.
Pitches 4 and 5 both felt really hard to me. Harder than the 12a. Come ready to fight. (IMO P5 could use 15 minutes with a wire brush. Definitely still some lichen and granite chiclets hanging on up there-mostly clean where it counts though)