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Colchuck Balanced Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 
Leche La Vaca T 
Let it Burn T,S 
Milk n' Honey T 
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 
Scarface T 
Scoop, The T 
Tempest, The T 
West Face T 

Let it Burn 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jens Holsten, Max Hasson
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 693
Submitted By: Thomas Ramier on May 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The man, the myth, the legend Jon Gleason climbs t...

Description 

jensholsten.blogspot.com/2010/...






Protection 

single #1 and #2 camalot, a single purple TCU/Blue Alien, and doubles from green alien to #1 Camalot, plus many wires.


Photos of Let it Burn Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Gleason goes head first on Let It Burn. Classic route!
Jon Gleason goes head first on Let It Burn. Classi...

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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Aug 26, 2013

A few thoughts: the rack beta posted here's a bit wonky. I think he's trying to say single #2 and 3 when he writes single #1 and 2. We brought a #3 and found it valuable. As far as the climbing, it's a stellar route. I'd read somewhere the word gymnastic used to describe the climbing. Tack committing on and you get the picture. It's killer.

Pitch 2 is incredible. Hands down best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3 is also really good. My partner stepped right a little early to a finger crack way right. I think this was off route, but had fun climbing. To do it right, stay mostly straight and work up and right near the top of the pitch.
Pitches 4 and 5 both felt really hard to me. Harder than the 12a. Come ready to fight. (IMO P5 could use 15 minutes with a wire brush. Definitely still some lichen and granite chiclets hanging on up there-mostly clean where it counts though)
By hkennedy
Jul 6, 2014

Hats off to Jens and Max for an awesome route! Steep and wild movement from the bottom to the top. The 5.11+ pitches are just as hard as the 12- pitch. Seems like a double rack from purple TCU to .75 and singles in the #1,#2 is a good rack + set of wires.
By kerwinl
Jul 7, 2014

Anybody know if the walkoff is snow free now?
By blakeherrington
Jul 29, 2014

For the extra credit verison, you can skip the final two easy pitches and move right after P5 (the overhanging hand traverse to the flake) and climb the crux pitch of the West Face and the final overhanging chimneys on that route.

It is also possible to move right after P4 (the first of the .11+ pitches) and climb some 5.11/5.11+ cracks on the right, up through a roof, to reach the belay stance under the crux of the West Face. (Accendo Luna variation)