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Let It Bleed 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Tilleskjor, Don Chambers 1969/70
Season: all year
Page Views: 1,446
Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
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Bill Odenthal (me) belayed by Nathan Fitzhugh, sho...

Description 

This featureless low-angle slab is great for working those feet! Delicate smears and good balance will get you up.


Location 

The route starts on a large ledge above Boogaloo direct. Follow the obvious line of bolts between the two right-facing dihedrals.


Protection 

6 bolts, rap rings on top



Photos of Let It Bleed Slideshow Add Photo
Let it Bleed climbs the face between the cracks (Left Flake and Right Flake).  From the area where the two cracks run out it's easy slab runout to the top.  Use the left set of anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Let it Bleed climbs the face between the cracks (L...
Daniel leading through the non-existant holds of Let it Bleed.
Daniel leading through the non-existant holds of L...
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Looking at the face as a whole, this face route climbs between the two major lieback cracks on the upper section of Big Rock. This route is the best of the three starting at the ledge at the terminus of Boogaloo Direct. Lots 'o feet as described.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 1, 2007

Balance is definately the key. This climb redefines the term "hold." Fun, fun, my second favorite at BR. Definately try this one!

By DonC
May 20, 2007

Doug Tilleskjor and I did the FA of this route in 1969 or 1970. Fun climb.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 1, 2009

Was one of my favorites back when I frequented the place.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 27, 2013

Hey DonC.......Thank you for coming forth and sharing your knowledge of the FA of "Let It Bleed." It's great that folks are sharing their knowledge and shedding some light on the history and climbers that established the climbs at Big Rock. What a great route. My 1st time up it was in a pair of EBs.

By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Apr 14, 2013

My first 10+, 1975, wearing EB's! What a difference EBs made.

By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Great route to practice your smearing and balance. Bolts paced closer together than easier routes. Makes this feel less intimidating and more like sport climbing