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Beaver Wall
Routes Sorted
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Chains in the Grove [Var] S 
Climb With A View T 
Dead By 30 S 
Easy on the Beaver S 
Golden Beaver T 
Golden Beaver Left T 
Hebe S 
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 
Highlander S 
Last Supper T 
Lessons In Yorkshire S 
Plate, The S 
Poplar Mechanics S 
Rage to Live S 
Right Tissue S 
Sparky Vision S 
Stems and Seeds T 
Trapeze T 
Trapezoid  S 
Vistacruiser T 

Lessons In Yorkshire 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Brad Smith
Page Views: 1,478
Submitted By: jbak on Mar 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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JB relaxin...

Description 

It was easy to make fun of Brad...he was a character. But he could CLIMB. He redpointed this over 20 years ago.

3 finger-tearing, bouldery cruxes separated by decent shakes, then a bit of pump to the chains.

Location 

Between Zschiesche (the black streak to the left) and Right Tissue (the black streak to the right).

Protection 

bolts


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 8, 2013
By Paul Davidson
Mar 13, 2009

That's Parsifal to you sir.

And you are absolutely correct.
6' 6" (8?) made for a good target and the mop on top was an excellent radar deflector.

But as you say, the lad his moments (on and off the rock.)
By jbak
Mar 13, 2009

That nickname was one of the things we made fun of. I think Brad's initials were well-chosen.
By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 13, 2010

A guy stops climbing and look at what they say about him ... It's Parsifal, actually.
By jbak
Apr 16, 2010

Wait... you mean it says "Parsifal" on your birth cert ?
By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 16, 2010

Parsifal Bradley Allen Smith-Hill ... It's a family curse. Understand why I used Brad for so long?

My daughter's name is Ryanne Connie Smith-Simonsen. I tried desperately to convince my wife to call her RC Smith. No luck ...
By jbak
Apr 16, 2010

Well....that explains a LOT...
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Probably the fewest crimps on this route that I've ever pulled at the Beaver Wall; there's quite a few full pad or more edges, but only a couple small crimps. Really cool, powerful, yet body-tension-mandatory movement. Lots of nonstandard Beaver Wall hold types like slopers and underclings. I enjoyed this route a lot!
By jbak
Mar 25, 2013

Strong work Alex !
By LiamOden
Mar 28, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I have to agree with alex, pretty friendly crimps aside from the opening moves. Super fun route. Just out curiosity is this line all natural?
By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
May 6, 2013

Glad you liked the route. I think I remember two starts to that route, direct and a traverse of some kind, right? How are you guys starting? As I look back, I only remember doing the direct, probably because of the effort put forth, but seem to recall the traverse being a little more interesting. Or was is just more contrived? It's been so long. I need to make a trip back to revisit the days of grind and glory ...
By jbak
May 7, 2013

Hey Brad... I think you are thinking of Rage when you talk about the two starts. Didn't you FA Rage ?
By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
May 8, 2013

Good question. I don't remember, to be honest. Rage to Live, right? Didn't Craig Smith put that up? I think I climbed it, though. If that's what I'm thinking about with the two starts then I have no recollection of LiY was like. It's all a blur, really. We were all pushing ourselves and had people like Craig and Lynn Hill and Todd Skinner going out with us and encouraging our efforts. It seems like every day was starting, working on, or finishing another FA. Heady times.