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South Cliffband
Routes Sorted
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Acid Rain S 
Another Lichen Nightmare S 
Crackerjack T 
Crystal Suppository S 
Dreamscape T,TR 
Dynabolic S 
Finger in the Socket S 
Illusion Dissolution S 
Just Say No to Crack S 
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 
Prow, The S 
Rocket in My Pocket S 
Sanadine Dream S 
Shadowdancer S 
Unnamed S 

Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Leslie Coon, Richard Faust
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 19, 2011

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Description 

While the various guides bag on this route, it isn't too bad, has all natural holds and gets shade until late in the day. A bit inconsistent as the first three moves are the hardest, but things remain interesting for the first 20 ft. A hard start with a tweaky first move utilizing a shallow but positive left hand mono, leads to the first bolt. From here big sequential pulls on good pockets leads past the next few closely spaced bolts. At the fourth bolt the rock quality deteriorates and the lichen increases, but the difficulty decreases making it easy to top out and downclimb back to the 4th bolt.

Location 

This is the first route you come too on the South Cliffband. It is West Facing, so gets more shade than many of the other routes.

Protection 

4 Bolts. There are no anchors however the top is easy enough that is isn't too bad to top out then downclimb back to the 4th bolt. From here the bolts are spaced close enough together that you can go in direct to the lower bolt and clean the upper ones. Then grab the bottom one or two with a stickclip.


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