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Division Wall
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Les is More 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison and Brian Smoot
Page Views: 1,735
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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just waiting for the crux!
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A reasonably fun route with jugs, pockets, and stemming. Climb 8 or 9 feet to a ledge, clipping a bolt just below the lip of the ledge. Continue up on pockets and edges until after the sixth bolt; move left and stem in a dihedral to the top.

The hard part for me was after the fourth bolt. Two-finger pockets, an insecure sidepull and a difficult-to-commit-to, reachy move to the next bomber pocket.


Location 

On the west face of Division Wall, this route is to the right of the obvious dihedral. It starts below a ledge about 8 or 9 feet up; the first bolt is just below the lip of the ledge.


Protection 

7 bolts to chain anchors.



Photos of Les is More Slideshow Add Photo
Robert MacKinnon leading Les is More.
Robert MacKinnon leading Les is More.
great 5.10
great 5.10
Pocket Change!
Pocket Change!
Comments on Les is More Add Comment
Show which comments
By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 4, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great pockets on nice limestone!

By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Jul 24, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

this is a really good 10a. one of the best at the grade ive encountered.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Don't forget to jam and stem at the top else its a bit harder!

By Bad Sock Puppet
Jun 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Decided against stemming to keep it interesting, which made it quite a bit harder, especially since the rock is fairly polished on the face. A good division warmup, but nothing special.

By jzp
From: Pleasant Grove
Jun 12, 2012

be careful on those two deep pockets in the middle of the climb, i was using the one on the right as a deep under-cling with my torso above the hold, my foot slipped on the polished face and i almost broke my wrist

By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Jul 17, 2012

Really fun. Lots of diversity with uncommonly deep pockets, stemming, and some unique hand jamming at the top. I thought it was pretty hard to be a 10a, maybe we were doing it wrong.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 19, 2013

I've lost track how many times I've done this one as a warm up...