When I was there a winch start past the first 2 bolts (I think it was 2) was considered legit and the route was 5.13a. The boulder problem bumps the grade up a bit even though it is not excedingly hard V6 or V7ish. Climb the long tuffa up the steep wall to its end. Continue up the overhanging face on pockets to the anchor. An extention has been done called The Black Bean and is 5.14- and a 70m pitch.
A few routes right of Realization, follows the obvious 60' long tuffa up the steep wall.
Bolts and a bolted anchor.
|By Zach Alberts|
From: Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Feb 19, 2012
I believe the boulder problem at the start is chipped. The tufa climbing after the boulder problem is totally worth doing. Awesome route.
|By Elliott Bates|
May 11, 2012
A great route from the 3rd bolt on. A shame that the boulder problem at the start is chipped and heinous because the rest of the route is super fun. Supposedly people call it a 13a send after winching past the first 3 bolts... But that is weak sauce. I'd say the whole route is 13b/c with the bp. Amazing through the tufas and at the top.
|By jimi thornburg|
Mar 26, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Winch start? How is that legit?