Leprosy 5.11c
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Jason on Leprosy, April 22, 2006
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Description Beautiful, steeply overhung route at the far left side of the crag. Not as far left as Frosted Mini Wheats, or Mini Wheats, however. Sustained! Crux is near the top of the route.
Protection 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The Leprosy route at Area 37. Anchor bolts are a b...
| Blue sky in the background of a photo at Area 37? ...
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By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM May 15, 2007 rating: 5.11
| I consider this the best route at Area 37. Steep and sustained with good holds when you need them. Some slopers down low to positive but steep holds higher up. The rock quality overall, though, is a bit dubious so climb it soon before all the good holds come off. The anchor setup is funky. Two cold shuts with one higher than the other. I hope to take some links up there soon to make it easier to equalize and clean up there. |
By Jason Hundhausen From: Bozeman, MT Jun 14, 2007 rating: 5.11c
| Have to agree with Jason--Leprosy is a great route and is my favorite at Area 37. There are places where the rock can be brittle, so make sure your belayer wears a helmet. Even though the routes are for the most part pretty clean, I have seen holds break off--it's just the nature of the rock there. |
By Scott Beguin Jul 10, 2007 rating: 5.11a
| This is a Good route at Mile Marker 37 but I only give it two stars because of rock quality. It is continuous at the 11a grade. The bolts are rusting as this gets the weather. |
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 24, 2007 rating: 5.11
| Thanks to a hardware donation from NMCRAG, the anchors on this route were replaced in July 2007 with quality Fixe Sport Anchors. |
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