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 ADVANCED
Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Botox S 
Dope S 
Faith S 
Leper S 
Leprosy S 
Minutia S 
New 1 S 
Rosebudd S 
Soul Crusher S 
Unknown S 

Leper 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield, 2003
Page Views: 653
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jun 3, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Topo shot

Closed Permanently for Sensitive Archaeological Resources MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Work up the right side of the cave with long pulls on jugs, there is a slopy crack feature near where the route goes horizontal. Venture out and left across the roof on pods with holds in them or pinches. When the good holds end the first crux hits moving around a weird block with bad feet finishing with a throw to jugs in an alcove above the feature. Cop a painful knee bar rest. Once ready, move left into the tough pocket section of Dope and up through the jugs. Finish here for "??" 5.13-, or continue out left through the V6 boulder problem to the top.

Location 

This is the third route from the right side of the cave and is just left of a seam feature for the first few bolts. It moves largely left across the roof to join up with the last two cruxes of Dope.

Protection 

Bolts with fixed chain draws. I believe they have brown tape on them until they join Dope at which point the Dope draws are green.


Photos of Leper Slideshow Add Photo
Mostly through the first crux on Leper, probably V6 or so.  A great rest awaits in the next pod.
Mostly through the first crux on Leper, probably V...

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