Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Animal Boulder
Select Route:
Dead Animal Traverse 
Leopold and his Friction 
Long Tall Texan 
North Face Traverse 
Ron's Pharmacy 

Leopold and his Friction 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: micah maydew on May 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start out with a sit start on the NW arete of the Dead Animal boulder. Climb up then traverse right across the wide, blank face with bad feet and a few small, sharp crimps. Finnish with Ron's Pharmacy.

Location 

Santee boulders, just west of Moby Dick and the amphitheatre

Protection 

Crash Pad


Comments on Leopold and his Friction Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Kimmerly
Jun 3, 2010

I know a full traverse of the boulder has been done by Erik Roed (and probably others) at least from right to left and it was called V4. One variation even finished via the V3 "Long Tall Texan". I checked my notes last night on my guide book draft and he also labeled this problem but with it finishing further right with the Aanimal Mantel, giving it a high quality rating and V3 for difficulty (knowing Erik, likely a sandbag). Either way on that traverse, the holds up there are desperate! Fortunately, once you make it through the tip-munching traverse, you'll join Ron's Pharmacy above the hard start and have only V1-ish moves to finish it off. The Animal Mantel is a whole different story...
By micah maydew
Jun 8, 2010

Thanks for the input! I hoped I would find some history about this problem if I posted it as a route. In the year I spent in Santee, I couldn't find anyone who knew about the problem or had even tried it.

The V6 rating I gave it is based on similar routes I have climbed in my home town of Boulder, CO. I have noticed that the problems in Santee are a bit sandbagged (with much respect).

One of my favorite problems in Santee!

THANKS!
By Adam Kimmerly
Jun 8, 2010

Nice... Yah, some of the grades are a little stiff, but I think part of it is just that it's really a different kind of climbing that doesn't translate well to other bouldering areas. Regardless, it's a good problem, and the beauty of Mountainproject is that the grade will eventually get sorted out by the consensus.