Leopold and his Friction V6
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start out with a sit start on the NW arete of the Dead Animal boulder. Climb up then traverse right across the wide, blank face with bad feet and a few small, sharp crimps. Finnish with Ron's Pharmacy.
Location Santee boulders, just west of Moby Dick and the amphitheatre
Protection Crash Pad
| Comments on Leopold and his Friction |
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By Adam Kimmerly Jun 3, 2010
| I know a full traverse of the boulder has been done by Erik Roed (and probably others) at least from right to left and it was called V4. One variation even finished via the V3 "Long Tall Texan". I checked my notes last night on my guide book draft and he also labeled this problem but with it finishing further right with the Aanimal Mantel, giving it a high quality rating and V3 for difficulty (knowing Erik, likely a sandbag). Either way on that traverse, the holds up there are desperate! Fortunately, once you make it through the tip-munching traverse, you'll join Ron's Pharmacy above the hard start and have only V1-ish moves to finish it off. The Animal Mantel is a whole different story... |
By micah maydew Jun 8, 2010
| Thanks for the input! I hoped I would find some history about this problem if I posted it as a route. In the year I spent in Santee, I couldn't find anyone who knew about the problem or had even tried it. The V6 rating I gave it is based on similar routes I have climbed in my home town of Boulder, CO. I have noticed that the problems in Santee are a bit sandbagged (with much respect). One of my favorite problems in Santee! THANKS! |
By Adam Kimmerly Jun 8, 2010
| Nice... Yah, some of the grades are a little stiff, but I think part of it is just that it's really a different kind of climbing that doesn't translate well to other bouldering areas. Regardless, it's a good problem, and the beauty of Mountainproject is that the grade will eventually get sorted out by the consensus. |
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