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Leominster State Forest

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Leominster State Forest  


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Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013
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Description 

A decent outcrop of rock can be found on the adjacent hill to the popular Crow Hill Ledge. The longest route goes at about 45-50 feet, and there is much loose/chossy rock. The cliff is approximately 100 feet wide and has steep faces, a couple large roofs, and a dirty chimney/ gully climb. Great care should be taken in watching out for loose rock and placing trad protection. Helmets are a must due to the rock falling potential and the fact that the mid-state trail runs across the top of the cliff.

Getting There 

On Route 31, park at the dirt pullout across from Crocker Pond (small brown sign). Take the blue blazed trail up the hillside until it intersects with the yellow blazed Mid-State Trail. Take a left onto the Mid-State trail and follow until you reach an obvious stone staircase leading to the top of the rock outcrop. Halfway up the stairs take a left at a large fallen tree onto a climber's trail that follows the rock face. Approximately 150 feet in, you will find the obvious taller face. Do NOT cut left before the fallen tree as the rather large talus field is quite hazardous (found that out the hard way). I placed a large square stone in the broken stump of the large tree to help identify it.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Leominster State Forest

Unknown 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MA : Leominster Area : Leominster State Forest
In the center of the tallest face is a nice, splitter fist crack. Start up the face below the crack. Once you gain the crack, pull a small overhang to its right while placing bomber gear (large cams) in the crack. A reachy move to a left facing horn gains a ledge to rest before tackling the crux overhanging face to the top. Pumpy moves up the face will test your finger strength for the grade. Caution!!!! The best hold before the top-out is a large, hollow flake of rock below the top. It makes an...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Comments on Leominster State Forest Add Comment
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By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 3, 2013
I believe this cliff has been overlooked primarily because of loose rock; however, there is some fun climbing to be had here for the safety conscious climber.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Jun 18, 2013
Is this also the cliff thats mentioned in Boston Rocks also right behind a house?
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 19, 2013
No. That is Redemption Crag. This cliff has been overlooked constantly for what I can only figure to be the perception that it is a crumbling pile of crap. We've found a few decent climbs though, and one is actually quite good, with pumpy moves and decent pro.
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