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Leominster Area

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Crow Hill 
Leominster State Forest 
Redemption Crag 
Sholan Farms 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Leominster Area 


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Location: 42.5246, -71.76007 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,316
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013
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Meaghan starting up Boardwalk.

Description 

Leominster and the surrounding towns have climbing areas other than Crow Hill. On weekends and days where Crow Hill is overcrowded, climbing can still be had at these areas, which can be tricky to find. Some have longer approaches than Crow Hill Ledge, and none of them offer the route quality, but there are some fun climbs hidden out there.


Getting There 

Directions for each area will be included in each area page.


Climbing Season


39 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',5],['5.8',9],['5.9',6],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Leominster Area:
Boardwalk   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Crow Hill : Practice Face (right end)
Green Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Crow Hill : Green Corner
Tomís Dilemma   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   Crow Hill : End Crags
The Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Crow Hill : The Buttress
Triple Overhangs (aka Sun Gypsy)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Crow Hill : Green Corner
Layback   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 32'   Crow Hill : End Crags
Outersite   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 55'   Crow Hill : Main Face
Franny's Folly   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Crow Hill : Main Face
Sidewinder   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Crow Hill : Practice Face (right end)
Intertwine   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Crow Hill : Main Face
Karen's Folly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Crow Hill : Main Face
Tarzan   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall
Diagonal   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall
Thin Line   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Crow Hill : Main Face
Watusi   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Crow Hill : The Buttress
Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Crow Hill : The Buttress
Fool on a Hill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Crow Hill : The Buttress
Cro-Magnon   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall
Jane   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall
Browse More Classics in Leominster Area

Featured Route For Leominster Area
Kneebarring to end the boulder problem start.  Here the pumpy climbing begins with one good rest in the middle. <br /> <br />I haven't really seen anyone else get on this, so I'm not sure if this is the normal beta, but it worked perfectly.

Cro-Magnon 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  MA : Leominster Area : ... : Fisherman's Wall
Awesome and pumpy, this is the inviting, vertical hand crack that starts up the tallest portion of the wall but arches left to end the journey early. The start is guarded by a steep boulder problem without pro leading to a pod with a shiny silver bolt on what looks like a chockstone about 15 feet up. There are three variations to this start, but most people opt to enter from the right on big, chalked holds. After clipping the bolt (gear can easily substitute), move up on a few slopey holds be...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

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