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The Lenticular Dome is a good looking piece of rock (as far as rocks go). Far and away the most sought-after route here is Mental Physics, which has been called the best 5.7 in the country. While I can't attest to that, it sure is a lot of fun! While you're waiting in line for Mental Physics, try Dazed And Confused, a 5.9 (R-) bolted face just a few feet to the left.
From Barker Dam parking area, hike due north until you reach the Don Juan Boulder (a GIANT boulder in the middle of the wash). You will see the Astro Domes to the west. Just beyond, continue NW through a wash until directly under the Lenticular Dome, which will be on the right (north). Look for climbers' trail and scramble (3rd class) up to the base of the rock. Approach time - 30 minutes.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lenticular Dome:
Mental Physics 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Unconscious Obscenity 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Dazed and Confused 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Hand Wobler Delight 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
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Mental Physics 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lenticular Dome
What a fun route! So much fun in fact that there was an entire institute established in Yucca Valley where all they do is sit around all day and talk about how great a route it is (and if you believe that...). But seriously, Mental Physics one of those routes you can climb again and again.P1: Climb 120' of sweet jamming to 3-bolt anchor (2 of which are good, one is old). Either rap from here with 1 60-m rope and a bit of downclimbing, or continue up P2: face climb (5.4?) past one bolt to top....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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