Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack 
Bosker Boozeroo 
Box Overhang Left 
Box Overhang Right 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) 
Boy What Nice Fellows 
Captain Smarmbag 
Cholla Crack 
Cholla Wall 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones 
Double Vision / Ream Dream 
Face Off 
Headwall Crack Left 
Headwall Crack Right 
Holy Crack 
Holy Wall 
Len's Roof 
M.C. Epic 
Narcissistic Dream 
Nice Guys Finish Last 
No Exit 
On Beyond Zebra 
Paul's Boutique 
Polly's Crack 
RDD Crack 
Route 21 
Sensuous S 
Squeeze Chimney 
Thief in Time 
Thorazine Dream 
Way Beyond Zebra 

Len's Roof 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Len Margolin, ~1972 (on TR), 1st lead- ???
Season: year round
Page Views: 880
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 3, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
George Perkins cranking through the discomfort. Jan...


Strenuous, possibly painful hand jamming out the crack in the center of the big roof leads to easier crack climbing above. The roof, and the rest of the climb, protect well with hand-size cams. The crux is getting your feet up and around the lip of the roof.


This route follows the hand crack in the center of the huge, obvious roof on the right side of the main wall. Shown as route number 25 on the Overlook route topo photo.


1 or 2 each #1 and #2 camalots, for the crux; and a #3 camalot.
Tape is recommended.
Most people will not need to place more than one piece of pro before the roof, and if you're ok with running it out on the 5.4 above the roof, you don't need any cams bigger than #3 camalot or any nuts or any small cams.

Photos of Len's Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Ken Cohegan
Ken Cohegan
Matt on Len's Roof. January 2011.
Matt on Len's Roof. January 2011.
Comments on Len's Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 22, 2009

Painful indeed! Ended up bleeding pretty good on this one, but it hurt sooo good. For those with big hands, the pain may be worth the security of the jams - taping up made it feel a lot less secure, albeit a lot less painful. If you don't want to carry anything larger than #2 camalots, opportunities abound above the roof for 0.5s and .75s.

By Michael Wheat
Jun 28, 2010

I managed to send it with out Jamming the roof. Once you figure it out YOU WILL LOVE THIS CLIMB!