Strenuous, possibly painful hand jamming out the crack in the center of the big roof leads to easier crack climbing above. The roof, and the rest of the climb, protect well with hand-size cams. The crux is getting your feet up and around the lip of the roof.
This route follows the hand crack in the center of the huge, obvious roof on the right side of the main wall. Shown as route number 25 on the Overlook route topo photo.
1 or 2 each #1 and #2 camalots, for the crux; and a #3 camalot.
Tape is recommended.
Most people will not need to place more than one piece of pro before the roof, and if you're ok with running it out on the 5.4 above the roof, you don't need any cams bigger than #3 camalot or any nuts or any small cams.
Matt on Len's Roof. January 2011.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 22, 2009
Painful indeed! Ended up bleeding pretty good on this one, but it hurt sooo good. For those with big hands, the pain may be worth the security of the jams - taping up made it feel a lot less secure, albeit a lot less painful. If you don't want to carry anything larger than #2 camalots, opportunities abound above the roof for 0.5s and .75s.
|By Michael Wheat|
Jun 28, 2010
I managed to send it with out Jamming the roof. Once you figure it out YOU WILL LOVE THIS CLIMB!