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Pitch one, two cruxes, first comes about 20 ft off the ground when transitioning out of the crack to a better stance. Second is pulling over the roof towards the end. Big hold and a twist helps. .10c
Pitch two, more vertical going up the column face. Hard to find holds lead to another roof, somewhat easier than the one on the first pitch. .11c
It is definitely a two rope rap.
Pitch 1: 10 bolts and anchors.
Pitch 2: 9 bolts and anchors.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 27, 2012
One of the few multi-pitch climbs at The Palace...I give it 3 stars. Pretty easy climbing for the first half of pitch 1, then the crux for me came at the small roof near the top. I made it to the roof by climbing to the right and traversing under it left. Not sure if that's the way it's supposed to be done, but there were some good underclings/side pulls, and it offered great exposure.
Pitch 2 was something completely different. Very thin and balancy, quite the opposite of the first pitch. The first two bolts are gained by moderate holds. Some very thin moves will get you underneath the roof. I went right at first, using the lichen covered arete with some thin sidepulls, then had to traverse left under the roof. Pulling the roof is a breeze leading to a kick ass belay ledge.
Enjoy the view!
|By Elijah Flenner|
Dec 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
The first roof is a little tricky, and the easiest sequence on the second pitch is hard to read. Did it as one pitch, and the rope drag was a real drag going to the top anchor.