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Lene's Dream is an outstanding face climb in an outrageous position. It also makes a great finish to Jules Verne - it parallels the second pitch of the Naked Edge as Jules Verne parallels the first.
Climb the crux runout pitch of Jules Verne, place good gear in the rotten band, and, instead of traversing left, continue straight up to a nice stance above the band. Here you can place good gear and survey the climbing above. Continue up on 5.10+/5.11- technical face to an obvious slot for a green Alien or similar cam. The crux is the next ten feet or so of climbing (11c).
Finish by cutting over to the Edge at the point on the second pitch where you turn the corner from the slab to the steep face. I think the S/VS rating Rossiter gives the climb may be for Jules Verne? Lene's Dream seemed fairly well protected, although it requires a willingness to move above small, albeit good, gear.
Small stuff. A 0.5 Camalot protects the initial moves; a Green Alien protects the crux.
Shumin on Lene's Dream after climbing Jules Verne.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 20, 2003
Borderline 'VS' for the Jules Verne face... mild, fuzzy-'S' for Lene's Dream.
|By Ken Duncan|
Jul 6, 2004
If you are going to do Jules Verne this is definitely a better way to finish than traversing left and following the regular ho hum finish.
|By Ben Walburn|
Mar 24, 2011
A must do for the finish on Jules Verne. The runout ain't that bad.
Sep 17, 2012
Took the whip from as far from the gear as possible.... Wasn't bad. Bomber 0.3 C4 or green Alien in the small roof. Don't be a moron, go straight up the green and red border.