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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Lene's Dream 
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Sickness Unto Death 
Slots of Fun 
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T2 
T2 Direct Finish 
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Wingless Victory 

Lene's Dream 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Roger Briggs & Scott Woodruff, 1976
Page Views: 2,592
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 10, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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This shot shows the JV runout, the rotten band (ge...
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  • Description 

    Lene's Dream is an outstanding face climb in an outrageous position. It also makes a great finish to Jules Verne - it parallels the second pitch of the Naked Edge as Jules Verne parallels the first.

    Climb the crux runout pitch of Jules Verne, place good gear in the rotten band, and, instead of traversing left, continue straight up to a nice stance above the band. Here you can place good gear and survey the climbing above. Continue up on 5.10+/5.11- technical face to an obvious slot for a green Alien or similar cam. The crux is the next ten feet or so of climbing (11c).

    Finish by cutting over to the Edge at the point on the second pitch where you turn the corner from the slab to the steep face. I think the S/VS rating Rossiter gives the climb may be for Jules Verne? Lene's Dream seemed fairly well protected, although it requires a willingness to move above small, albeit good, gear.


    Protection 

    Small stuff. A 0.5 Camalot protects the initial moves; a Green Alien protects the crux.



    Photos of Lene's Dream Slideshow Add Photo
    Shumin on Lene's Dream after climbing Jules Verne.
    Shumin on Lene's Dream after climbing Jules Verne.
    Comments on Lene's Dream Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 20, 2003

    Borderline 'VS' for the Jules Verne face... mild, fuzzy-'S' for Lene's Dream.

    By Ken Duncan
    Jul 6, 2004

    If you are going to do Jules Verne this is definitely a better way to finish than traversing left and following the regular ho hum finish.

    By Ben Walburn
    Mar 24, 2011

    A must do for the finish on Jules Verne. The runout ain't that bad.

    By VARMENT
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Sep 17, 2012

    Took the whip from as far from the gear as possible.... Wasn't bad. Bomber 0.3 C4 or green Alien in the small roof. Don't be a moron, go straight up the green and red border.