Lene's Dream  5.11b/c R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Roger Briggs & Scott Woodruff, 1976 Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Nov 10, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

This shot shows the JV runout, the rotten band (ge...

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Lene's Dream is an outstanding face climb in an outrageous position. It also makes a great finish to Jules Verne - it parallels the second pitch of the Naked Edge as Jules Verne parallels the first.

Climb the crux runout pitch of Jules Verne, place good gear in the rotten band, and, instead of traversing left, continue straight up to a nice stance above the band. Here you can place good gear and survey the climbing above. Continue up on 5.10+/5.11- technical face to an obvious slot for a green Alien or similar cam. The crux is the next ten feet or so of climbing (11c).

Finish by cutting over to the Edge at the point on the second pitch where you turn the corner from the slab to the steep face. I think the S/VS rating Rossiter gives the climb may be for Jules Verne? Lene's Dream seemed fairly well protected, although it requires a willingness to move above small, albeit good, gear.

Protection 

Small stuff. A 0.5 Camalot protects the initial moves; a Green Alien protects the crux.

Photos of Lene's Dream Slideshow

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Shumin on Lene's Dream after climbing Jules Verne.